Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
in Danish history,” Christianshavn burned down. That's why today there's
hardly a building here that dates from before 1807.
Christianshavn remained Copenhagen'scommercial center until the 1920s,
when a modern harbor was built. Suddenly, Christianshavn's economy col-
lapsed and it became a slum. Cheap prices attracted artsy types, giving it a
bohemian flavor.
In 1971, several hundred squatters took over an unused military camp and
created the Christiania commune (described later). City officials looked the
other way because back then, no one cared about the land. But by the 1980s,
the neighborhood had become gentrified, and today it's some of priciest real
estate in town. (A small apartment costs around $300,000.) Suddenly deve-
lopers are pushing to take back the land from squatters, and the very existence
of Christiania is threatened.
Christianshavn prices are driven up by wealthy locals (who pay about 60
percentoftheirincomeintaxes)payingtoomuchforapartments,rentingthem
cheaply to their kids, and writing off the loss. Demand for property is huge.
Prices have skyrocketed. Today the neighborhood is inhabited mostly by rich
students and young professionals. Apart from pleasant canalside walks and
trendy restaurants to enjoy, there are two things to see in Christianshavn: Our
Savior's Church (with its fanciful tower) and Christiania (before it's gone).
The church recently reopened after a restoration, which has left it gleaming
inside and out. Its bright Baroque interior (1696) is shaped like a giant cube.
The magnificent pipe organ is supported by elephants (a royal symbol of the
prestigiousOrderoftheElephant).Lookinguptotheceiling,noticeelephants
also sculpted into the stucco of the dome, and a little one hanging from the
main chandelier. Best of all, you can climb the unique spiral spire (with an
outdoor staircase winding up to its top—398 stairs in all) for great views of
the city and of the Christiania commune below.
