ESTONIA - Scandinavia - page 1037

Russian and Caucasian Food
(See “Talinn Hotels & Restaurants” map, here .)
As about a third of the local population is enthusiastically Russian, there are
plenty of places serving Russian cuisine (see also under “Budget Eateries,”
next page).
Troika is my choice for Russian food. Right on Town Hall Square, with
a folkloric-costumed waitstaff, they serve €6-9 bliny (pancakes) and pelmeni
(dumplings), and €12-20 main dishes. Sit out on the square (reserve for din-
ner), down in the trippy, trendy cellar, or in the more casual tavern (ground
level out back, prices 15 percent lower). A balalaika player usually strums and
strolls after 19:00 (daily 12:00-23:00, Raekoja Plats 15, tel. [phone]).
Must Lammas is straightforward and elegant, focusing on just plain tasty
Caucasian food from Georgia, Armenia, and Azerbaijan (€9 lunch specials,
€10-18 main dishes, Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-18:00, Sauna 2, tel.
644-2031).
Medieval Cuisine
(See “Talinn Hotels & Restaurants” map, here .)
Two well-run restaurants just below Town Hall Square specialize in re-creat-
ing medieval food (from the days before the arrival of the potato and tomato
from the New World). They are each grotesquely touristy, complete with gift
shops where you can buy your souvenir goblet. Both have street seating, but
you'll get all the tourists and none of the atmosphere.
Olde Hansa, filling three creaky old floors and outdoor tables with tour-
ists, candle wax, and scurrying medieval waitresses, can be quite expensive
(€13-35 main dishes, daily 10:00-24:00, musicians circulate nightly after
18:00, a belch below Town Hall Square at Vana Turg 1, reserve in advance,
tel. [phone]). Peppersack, across the street, tries to compete (Vana Turg 6,
tel. [phone]).
Pubs in the Old Town
(See “Talinn Hotels & Restaurants” map, here .)