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complete with cranes on the gables. After a block, you'll pass St. Olav's
Church (Oleviste Kirik, a Baptist church today), notable for what was once
the tallest spire in the land. Its plain whitewashed interior is skippable, though
climbing 234 stairs up the tower rewards you with a great view (church-
free entry, daily 10:00-18:00, July-Aug until 20:00; tower-€2, open April-Oct
only; www.oleviste.ee ).
While tourists see only a peaceful scene today, locals strolling this street
are reminded of dark times under Moscow's rule. The KGB used the tower at
St. Olav's Church to block Finnish TV signals. The once-handsome building
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