Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
the“KingChristianIV”sidebar,later).Thepersonalenergyofthis“Build-
er King” sparked a Golden Age when Copenhagen prospered and many of
the city's grandest buildings were erected. In the 17th century, Christian
IV extended the city fortifications to the north, doubling the size of the
city, while adding a grid plan of streets and his Rosenborg Castle. This old
“new town” has the Amalienborg Palace and
The Little Mermaid
site.
In1850,Copenhagen's140,000residentsalllivedwithinthisdefensive
system. Building in the no-man's-land outside the walls was only allowed
with the understanding that in the event of an attack, you'd burn your
dwellings to clear the way for a good defense.
Most of the city's historic buildings still in existence were built within
the medieval walls, but conditions became too crowded, and outbreaks of
disease forced Copenhagen to spread outside the walls. Ultimately those
walls were torn down and replaced with “rampart streets” that define
today's city center: Vestervoldgade (literally, “West Rampart Street”),
Nørrevoldgade (“North”), and Østervoldgade (“East”). The fourth side is
the harbor and the island of Slotsholmen, where København was born.
Day 2:
At 10:00, go Neoclassical at Thorvaldsen's Museum (closed Mon),
andtourtheroyalreception roomsattheadjacent ChristiansborgPalace. After
a
smørrebrød
lunch, spend the afternoon seeing the Rosenborg Castle/crown
jewels and the Museum of Danish Resistance. Spend the evening at Tivoli
Gardens.
Christiania—the hippie squatters' community—is not for everyone. But
it's worth considering if you're intrigued by alternative lifestyles, or simply
want a break from the museums. During a busy trip, Christiania fits best in the
evening.
Budget Itinerary Tip:
Remember the efficiency and cost-effectiveness of
sleeping while traveling in and out of town (saving time and hotel costs). Con-
sider taking an overnight train to Stockholm or Oslo, or cruise up to Oslo on
a night boat. Kamikaze sightseers on tight budgets see Copenhagen as a use-
ful Scandinavian bottleneck. They sleep heading into town on a train, tour the
