Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Sights
The reserve headquarters, El Porvenir, is in the
cerrado
(savanna) and quite a distance
from the rainforest. The station organizes everything in the reserve: accommodations,
food, guides and horseback riding. The best way to observe wildlife is to hire a guide at
the station and go for a hike, though the heat might be easier to take if you hire a horse.
Laguna Normandia
This savanna lake, an hour's walk from El Porvenir, is the reserve's most popular destina-
tion. The sight of the world's largest population of crawling, rare black caimans - there
are at least 400 of them - is truly astounding. The reptiles are the descendants of speci-
mens originally destined to become unwilling members of the fashion industry, by provid-
ing shoe and bag material for a leather company. When the caiman breeder's business
failed, the animals were left behind, and sadly the majority perished from neglect,
crowding and hunger. The survivors were rescued by Bolivian authorities and airlifted to
safety.
Fortunately, caimans have little interest in humans, so it's generally safe to observe
them at close range while rowboating around with a guide. If you find them too scary to
get up close and personal, climb the 11m
viewing tower
.
LAKE
Totaizal & Reserva Forestal Chimane
A stone's throw from the road and a 40-minute walk from El Porvenir is Totaizal. This
friendly and well-organized village of 140 people lies hidden in the forest of the Chimane
reserve. The Chimane, traditionally a nomadic forest tribe, have in recent times faced ex-
pulsion from their ancestral lands by lumber companies and highland settlers. Skilled
hunters, the Chimane people have a fascinating way of fishing, using natural poisons to
kill their prey. They are also highly adept at collecting wild honey and avoiding ballistic
bees. People living in the settlement of
Cero Ocho
, a four-hour walk from Totaizal,
trudge into the village to sell bananas, while others provide guiding services for visitors.
You can visit the village of Totaizal, but you'll have to make prior arrangements through
El Porvenir.
PARK
Tours
El Porvenir
WALKING TOUR, HORSEBACK RIDING
