Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Bolivian Jesuit missions. Its spiral pillars, carved wooden altar with a flying San Miguel,
extravagant golden pulpit, religious artwork, toylike bell tower and elaborately painted
facade are simply superb.
Although not designed by Martin Schmidt, the church does reflect his influence and is
generally considered the most beautiful of Bolivia's Jesuit missions. A unique feature of
San Miguel is the presence of no fewer than seven bells in the bell tower. When rung in
combination they transmit a complicated code language to the populace. The largest bell
rung in tandem with two others signals the departure of a dignitary, rung alone it's the
baptism of a child, while a special bell calls the faithful to prayer. You might want to pray
that you never hear the smallest bell in tandem with a medium-sized bell; it means a child
has died.
Sleeping & Eating
If you'd like to camp, speak with the nuns at the church, who can direct you to a suitable
site.
Alojamiento Pardo $
(
962-4209; Sucre; s/d B$70/120, without bathroom B$40/80)
Just off the plaza, this is
a simple and spartan option.
PENSION
Information
There is a
tourist office
(
962-4222; Calle 29 de Septiembre)
for information.
Getting There & Away
A complicated system of
micros
runs the circuit between San Miguel, San Ignacio de
Velasco and San Rafael de Velasco, with departures sometimes running clockwise and
sometimes counterclockwise (according to the day, rain, driver's fancy etc). Typically
they leave in the morning with an occasional additional mid-afternoon service, but
timetables change constantly and locals recommend that you inquire about your onward
travel on arrival. If necessary get a taxi to San Ignacio, but if the roads are bad expect to
pay more.
SANTA ANA DE VELASCO
The mission at this tiny Chiquitano village, 24km north of San Rafael de Velasco, was es-
tablished in 1755. The
church
, with its earthen floor and palm-frond roof, is more rustic
than the others and recalls the first churches constructed by the Jesuit missionaries upon
