Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
woe betide anybody that stays out after dark. The night air does produce some eerie voice-
like cries, but unimaginative people ascribe the phenomenon to winds rushing through the
thola .
Along the eastern shores of the lagoons, the wind has heaped up large arenales (sand
dunes). An interesting climb takes you to the symmetrical peak of Muyuloma , which
rises about 1000m above the plain. The summit affords views across the lagoons and bey-
ond to the endless expanses of the southern Altiplano. The return climb takes the better
part of a day.
An albergue (basic guesthouse) near the Tajzara visitors center was out of action at the
time of writing, but contact SERNAP for the latest information. The observatory here is a
favorite with bird-watchers in search of three of the world's six flamingo species, and the
rare horned and giant coots. Hikers can spend a very enjoyable six to eight hours on the
wonderful Inca Trail as it descends 2000m to the valley below. With luck, you may see
vicuñas, condors or mysterious petroglyphs of unknown origin.
INTER-ANDEAN VALLEYS
During the summertime, there are several places in the valley to go swimming in the
rivers, including Tomatitas, Coimata and Chorros de Jurina.
Tomatitas , with its natural swimming holes, three lovely rivers (the Sella, Guadalquivir
and Erquis) and happy little eateries, is popular with day-trippers from Tarija. The best
swimming is immediately below the footbridge, where there's also a park with a camp-
ground and barbecue sites. From here you can walk or hitch the 9km to Coimata . From
Tarija, turn left off the main San Lorenzo road. After less than 1km, you'll pass a
cemetery on the left, which is full of flowers and brightly colored crosses. Just beyond it,
bear right towards Coimata. Once there, turn left at the soccer field and continue to the
end of the road. Here you'll find a small cascade of water and a swimming hole that
makes a great escape, as lots of Tarijeño families can attest. There's also a choice of small
restaurants serving misquinchitos and doraditos (fried local fish with white corn), as well
as cangrejitos (small freshwater crabs). From this point, you can follow a walking track
40 minutes upstream to the base of the two-tiered Coimata Falls , which has a total drop
of about 60m.
Another swimming hole and waterfall are found at Rincón de la Victoria , 6km south-
west of Tomatitas in a green plantationlike setting. Instead of bearing right beyond the
colorful cemetery, as you would for Coimata, follow the route to the left. From the fork,
it's 5km to Rincón de la Victoria.
The twin 40m waterfalls at Chorros de Jurina , 26km from Tarija, also make an agree-
able destination for a day trip. Set in a beautiful but unusual landscape, one water- fall
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