Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
(Calles 25 de Mayo & Bolívar) Constructed in 1581, the Iglesia & Convento de San Fran-
cisco is Cochabamba's second-oldest church. Major revisions and renovation occurred in
1782 and 1925, however, and little of the original structure remains. The attached convent
and cloister were added in the 1600s. The cloister was constructed of wood rather than the
stone that was customary at the time. The pulpit displays good examples of mestizo
design and there's a fine gold-framed altarpiece.
Iglesia de Santo Domingo
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(Santivañez & Ayacucho) The rococo Iglesia de Santo Domingo was founded in 1612
construction only began in 1778. Its intriguing main facade is made of stone, with anthro-
pomorphic columns. The interior, with a much-revered Trinity, is less interesting.
CHURCH
Iglesia de la Recoleta
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(Plazuela de la Recoleta) North of the river, the baroque Iglesia de la Recoleta was started
in 1654. It houses the attractive wooden Cristo de la Recoleta.
CHURCH
THE NUNS OF SANTA TERESA
The Santa Teresa convent in Cochabamba houses what remains of an order of cloistered Carmelite nuns. A strict
Catholic order with a strong devotion to the Virgin Mary, the Carmelites are thought to have been founded in the
12th century on Mt Carmel (hence the name). The order believes strongly in the power of contemplative prayer
and shuns the excesses of society.
In recent times, and with local families believing that a daughter in the convent guaranteed the entire family a
place in heaven, there was strong pressure on the first daughter of every cochabambino family to enter into the
convent. Such was the demand to get some real estate in heaven that there was even a waiting list set up when no
vacancies were available. An elderly nun had to pass on before a new young nun was allowed in.
Life inside was tough and a rigid class system operated. Those who paid a considerable dowry (equivalent to
more than US$150,000 in modern money) earned themselves a velo negro (black veil) and a place on the council
under the control of the Mother Superior. The council was responsible for all the decisions in the convent. As the
elite members of the order, velos negros were blessed with a private stone room with a single window, where they
spent most of their day in prayer, religious study and other acceptable activities such as sewing tapestries.
Each velo negro was attended by members of the velo blanco (white veil), second-class nuns whose family paid
a dowry but could not afford the full cost of a velo negro . Velo blanco nuns spent part of their day in prayer and
the rest in the personal service of the velo negro . Daughters of poor families who could not afford any kind of
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