Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
EL SILLAR
El Sillar (The Saddle), 15km from Tupiza, is where a road straddles a narrow ridge
between two peaks and two valleys. Throughout this area, rugged amphitheaters have
been gouged out of the mountainsides and eroded into spires that resemble a stone forest.
The road continues on to San Vicente, of Butch and Sundance fame. This entire route is
part of a centuries-old trade route. From May to early July you may see a trickle of llama,
alpaca and donkey trains - or nowadays more likely
camiones
(pickup trucks) - humping
salt blocks 300km from the Salar de Uyuni to trade in Tarija.
QUEBRADA PALMIRA
Between Tupiza and Quebrada Seca lies Quebrada Palmira, a wonderful, normally dry
wash flanked by tall and precarious fin formations. The right fork of the wash is rather
comically known as Valle de los Machos (Valley of Males) or Valle de los Penes (Valley
of Penises). The names stem from the clusters of exceptionally phallic pedestal forma-
tions.
CROSSING THE BORDER TO ARGENTINA
The Bolivian side of the main border crossing to Argentina in the town of
Villazón
is a sprawling, dusty, chaotic
sort of place. The frontier and bus station are always busy as numerous Bolivians work in Argentina. Watch out
for the usual scammers who tend to congregate at borders; dodgy banknotes and petty theft are not unknown.
The
Argentine consulate
Offline map
Google map
(
597-2011; Plaza 6 de Agosto 123; 10am-1pm
Mon-Fri)
is on the main square. Numerous
casas de cambio
(money changers) near the bridge along Av
República Argentina offer reasonable rates of exchange for US dollars and Argentine pesos, less for bolivianos.
Banco Mercantil
(JM Deheza 423)
changes cash and has an ATM dispensing US dollars and bolivianos.
All northbound buses depart from the
Villazón bus terminal
(fee B$2)
. All except those bound for Tarija pass
through Tupiza (B$15 to B$22, 2½ hours); it's a beautiful trip, so try to go in the daylight and grab a window seat
- at night the speed, turns and bumps can make it a very scary ride. Regular bus services also head to La Paz
(B$140 to B$170, 21 hours) via Potosí (B$80 to B$120, 11 hours) and Oruro (B$140 to B$160, 17 hours). Daily
evening buses along the rough but amazing route to Tarija (B$40, seven to eight hours) continue to Bermejo (there
are four onward departures per day).
Argentine bus companies have ticket offices opposite Villazón's terminal, but all Argentine buses leave from
the La Quiaca bus terminal, across the border. You'll be hassled by ticket sellers for both Argentine and Bolivian
bus services; don't be rushed into buying a ticket, as there may be a service leaving sooner. You can easily bargain
down the price on longer routes; conversely, the sellers may try and overcharge you on shorter journeys.
The Villazón train station is 1.5km north of the border crossing - a taxi costs B$5.
