Southern Altiplano - Bolivia - page 329

language, and it's assumed these were distinct from those of the tribes in neighboring
areas of southern Bolivia and northern Argentina.
Officially, Tupiza was founded on June 4, 1574, by Captain Luis de Fuentes (who was
also the founder of Tarija). From Tupiza's inception through the War of Independence, its
Spanish population grew steadily, lured by the favorable climate and suitable agricultural
lands. Later, the discovery of minerals attracted even more settlers. More recently,
campesinos (subsistence farmers) have drifted in from the countryside and many unem-
ployed miners have settled here.
CHIPAYA
Immediately north of the Salar de Coipasa, on the Río Sabaya delta, live the Chipaya people. They occupy two
main desert villages (Santa Ana de Chipaya and Ayparavi) of unique circular mud huts known as khuyas or putu-
cus, which have doors made from cactus wood and always face east. Chipayas are best recognized by their earth-
colored clothing and the women's unique hairstyle, which is plaited into 60 small braids. These are, in turn, joined
into two large braids and decorated with a laurake (barrette) at each temple.
Some researchers believe the Chipaya were the Altiplano's first inhabitants, and that they may in fact be a rem-
nant of the lost Tiwanaku civilization. Much of this speculation is based on the fact that their language is vastly
different from both Quechua and Aymará, and is probably a surviving form of Uru.
Chipaya tradition maintains that their people came into the world when it was still dark, and that they are des-
cended from the 'Men of Water' - perhaps the Uru. Their religion, which is nature-based, is complex and symbol-
ic, deifying phallic images, stones, rivers, mountains, animal carcasses and ancestors. The village church tower is
worshipped as a demon - one of 40 named demons who represent hate, ire, vengeance, gluttony and other evils.
These are believed to inhabit the whitewashed mud cones that exist within a 15km radius of the village, where
they're appeased with libations, sacrifices and rituals to prevent their evil from invading the village.
The reverent commemoration of dead ancestors culminates on November 2, Día de los Muertos (Day of the
Dead), when bodies are disinterred from chullpas (funerary towers). They're feted with a feast, copious drink and
coca leaves, and informed about recent village events and the needs of the living. Those who were chiefs, healers
and other luminaries are carried to the church where they're honored with animal sacrifices.
The Río Lauca, on which the Chipaya have depended for thousands of years, is not only heavily polluted but
has also been drying out due to global warming. A lot of the Chipaya have emigrated to Chile and the ones left in
the community are facing extinction. In the main settlement, Santa Ana de Chipaya, the traditional way of life is
slowly vanishing. It's rare to see the circular houses, also known as huayllichas , and the original dress unless you
go to Ayparavi or the rural areas.
Visiting the Chipaya
In general, tourists aren't especially welcome, and are expected to pay a fee for entering the Chipaya 'nation' (vis-
itors have been charged anything from US$50 to US$100 per person; you'll pay a lot less if you don't turn up in a
4WD). The Chipayas don't like to be photographed but some will do so for a fee (expect to be charged between
B$20 and B$100 per photo). There's simple alojamiento (basic accommodations) in Chipaya village and a small
shop.