Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Until just recently, many Bolivian pastoralists had fairly large llama herds, but they kept them more as pets and
pack animals, only sacrificing animals on occasion for big feasts. This asset-rich, cash-poor scenario - llamas are
worth about $100 each, and most high-plains ranchers have herds of around 80 head - prompted the Bolivian gov-
ernment to invest heavily in camelids through projects like Proyecto Vale ( www.proyectovale.com , in Spanish)
that look to protect the environment, reduce desertification and provide new uses for camelids throughout the high
plains. Now, with demand rising on international markets for llama meat and alpaca and vicuña wool, many
Bolivian ranchers are also turning back to their Inca roots and getting rid of their sheep and cattle herds in favor of
alpacas and llamas.
Species at a Glance
Vicuña (Vicugna vicugna) Nearly hunted to extinction for their fine wool - once reserved exclusively for Inca
emperors - the delicate rusty-orange vicuña are rebounding throughout the Andes. Innovative catch-and-shear
programs and increased patrols have cut down on poaching, and there are now around 350,000 vicuña across Ar-
gentina, Bolivia, Chile, Ecuador and Peru. Bolivia has around 60,000, and the populations are on the rise. You are
likely to see them in Parque Nacional Sajama, Reserva Nacional de Fauna Andina Eduardo Avaroa, Área Natural
de Manejo Integrado Nacional Apolobamba and in other wild areas above 4000m. Ongoing threats to the vicuña
include a lack of continuous protected areas, degraded land and poaching (vicuña blood is believed to cure all
kinds of ailments, and the wool is worth US$400 on local markets and up to US$2000 on international markets
per pound).
Guanaco (Lama guanicoe) These wily brownish animals are rarely seen in Bolivia, even though they will inhabit
a much wider range than their wild vicuña cousins: from sea level up to 4000m or higher. They are sometimes
seen in the highland plains of the Reserva Nacional de Fauna Andina Eduardo Avaroa.
Alpaca (Vicugna pacos) These domesticated animals are prized for their fine wool, used to make shawls, sweat-
ers and scarves. Smaller and more delicate than their llama brethren, alpacas require well-watered grasslands and
are more common in lower elevations.
Llama (L glama) The taller, rangier and hardier llama has relatively coarse wool that is used for blankets, ropes
and other household goods. It also works as a pack animal, but thanks to the introduction of the camión (flatbed
truck), llama trains are increasingly rare in Bolivia. Llamas can survive in dry, poor pastures, making them ideal
for the harsh Altiplano.
La Casona $
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(Montes 5969; pizzas from B$20) Straight-out-of-the-oven salteñas (meat and vegetable
pasties), quick sandwiches for lunch, and pizza and pasta for dinner keep this little place
buzzing, especially at night when it gets really busy and warm.
ITALIAN
Las Delicias $$
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(6 de Agosto 1284; almuerzo B$13-25, mains B$28-50) Of the several churrasquerías
(grilled meat restaurants) on this long street, Las Delicias is the best, with attentive ser-
BOLIVIAN
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