Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
(food B$5-15; 6am-8pm)
There are rows of lunch spots at this market, as well as
drinks stalls serving
mate
(a herbal infusion of coca, chamomile or similar),
api
(a local
drink made of maize) and coffee. You will find similar offerings at
Mercado Fermín
6am-8pm)
.
Restaurant Ardentia $
(S Galvarro; mains B$17-27; 6:30-11pm Mon-Sat)
We don't know how Halle Berry
would feel about the restaurant using her likeness for its publicity, but copyright infringe-
ment issues aside, this is probably one of the best restaurants in town. It has a thoughtfully
prepared lasagna, simple but savory chicken and beef dishes, and familiar standards such
as hamburgers. Surely Halle would approve.
INTERNATIONAL
Nayjama $$
(cnr Aldana & Pagador; mains B$30-55; closed for dinner Sun)
This appealing choice
serves high-quality traditional
orureño
food with a dash of innovation. The servings are
huge, so ask for half a portion of anything you order. Lamb is the specialty, as is
cabeza
(sheep's head served with salad and dehydrated potatoes). The English menu is slightly
more expensive so ask for the Spanish one.
BOLIVIAN
ANDEAN CAMELIDS
There's nothing like them on earth - playful, elegant, independent, ecological and cute as hell - the camelids of
the Andes are the species that define a continent.
Unlike the Old World, the western hemisphere had few grazing mammals after the Pleistocene era, when mam-
moths, horses and other large herbivores disappeared from North and South America. For millennia, the Andean
people relied on the New World camelids - the wild guanaco and vicuña, and the domesticated llama and alpaca -
for food, fiber and companionship.
Both of the domesticated varieties are highly ecological, friendly animals. Cross the Altiplano and you are
likely to see perfect circles of llama poop. Yes, in order to fulfill their Darwinian obligations, llamas and alpacas
all poop in the same place, protecting the delicate Andean high plains from turning into a veritable desert. They
also emit less noxious gas than other livestock - not insignificant considering that 18% of the world's CO2 emis-
sions come from livestock according to the Food and Agricultural Organization, and most of that comes from the
1.5 billion cows now living on our little blue planet. Don't want to become a vegan just yet? No worries, the low
CO2-emitting llamas also have low-fat, zero-cholesterol meat. And it tastes great - somewhere between beef and
lamb - whether in a stew, steak or jerky.
