Southern Altiplano - Bolivia - page 280

In a broad sense, these festivities can be described as reenactments of the triumph of good over evil, but the
festival is so interlaced with threads of Christian and indigenous myths, fables, deities and traditions that it would
be inaccurate to oversimplify it this way.

The origins of a similar festival may be traced back to the medieval kingdom of Aragón, although orureños
(Oruro locals) maintain that it commemorates an event that occurred during the early days of their own fair city.
Legend has it that one night a thief called Chiruchiru was seriously wounded by a traveler he'd attempted to rob.
Taking pity on the wrongdoer, the Virgen de Candelaria gently helped him reach his home near the mine at the
base of Cerro Pié del Gallo and succored him until he died. When the miners found him there, an image of the
Virgin hung over his head. Today, the mine is known as the Socavón de la Virgen (Grotto of the Virgin), and a
large church, the Santuario de la Virgen del Socavón , has been built over it to house the Virgin, the patron saint
of the city. Above the Canal de Desagüe, a massive statue of the Virgen del Socavón (Virgin of the Grotto) is be-
ing built; it should be completed by the time you read this.

This legend is combined with the ancient Uru tale of Huari and the struggle of Archangel Michael (San Miguel)
against the seven deadly sins.
Ceremonies begin several weeks before Carnaval itself, there are various candlelit processions, and dance
groups practice boisterously in the city's streets.

As well as traditional Bolivian dance groups, such as the Caporales, Llameradas, Morenadas and Tinkus,
Oruro's Carnaval features La Diablada (Dance of the Devils).

The main event kicks off on the Saturday before Ash Wednesday with the spectacular entrada (entrance proces-
sion) led by the brightly costumed San Miguel character. Behind him, dancing and marching, come the famous
devils and a host of bears and condors. The procession is followed by vehicles adorned with jewels (in commem-
oration of the achura rites in which the Inca offered their treasures to Inti, the sun, in the festival of Inti Raymi),
and the miners offer the year's highest-quality mineral to El Tío, the demonic owner of all underground minerals
and precious metals.
When the archangel and the devils arrive at the soccer stadium, they engage in a series of dances that tell the
story of the ultimate battle between good and evil. After it becomes apparent that good has triumphed over evil,
the dancers retire to the Santuario de la Virgen del Socavón at dawn on the Sunday, and a Mass is held in honor of
the Virgen, who pronounces that good has prevailed.

There's another, less spectacular entrada on the Sunday afternoon, and more dance displays on the Monday.
The next day, Shrove Tuesday, is marked by family reunions and cha'lla libations, in which alcohol is sprinkled
over worldly goods to invoke a blessing. The following day people make their way into the surrounding coun-
tryside where four rock formations - the Toad, the Viper, the Condor and the Lizard - are also subjected to cha'lla
as an offering to Pachamama.

Tickets typically cost between B$80 and B$230 for the seats along Av 6 de Agosto. On the main plaza, prime
seats cost between B$320 and $450.

Activities

ROCK CLIMBING

Club de Montañismo Halcones