Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The Route
Because most people do the trek from south to north - from Lagunillas (also known as
Tilinhuaya) to Agua Blanca - that's how it's described here. If you want to start from
Charazani
, you can either follow the long and winding road for four to five hours or take
the 3½ to four-hour shortcut. Cross the river at the thermal baths, then climb the other
bank and head back to the road. After about an hour you should follow a path that climbs
to a white-and-yellow church on your left. Beyond the church, descend the other side of
the hill, to just above the community of
Niñocorín
. After a short distance you'll strike an
obvious path; turn left onto it and follow it as it contours through the fields and then des-
cends to cross a river, where it starts the steep climb into Curva.
Most people choose to start in
Lagunillas
, with its pretty lake bristling with waterbirds.
The
albergue
here can arrange beasts of burden and guides. From here, it's a short walk to
the village of
Curva
, center of the Kallawaya community. From Curva, head toward the
cross on the hill north of the village and skirt around the right side of the hill. About an
hour out of Curva, you'll go across a stream. Continue uphill along the right bank of the
stream. At a cultivated patch about 200m before the valley descending from the right
flank of the snowy peak, cross the stream to join a well-defined path entering from your
left. If you continue along this path, you'll reach an excellent flat, streamside campsite.
Alternatively, keep following this trail for another 1½ hours to an ideal campsite at
Jatun-
pampa
(4200m).
From Jatunpampa, head up the valley and across a small plain to the
col
(saddle
between two peaks) with a cairn, about two hours along. Known as the
Cumbre Tambil-
lo
, this 4700m pass offers fabulous views of Akamani off to the northwest. One to two
hours further along you'll arrive at a good campsite (4100m) near the
Incacancha
(aka
Incachani) waterfall.
The following morning's zig-zag ascent of the
Akamani Sacred Hill
looks a bit daunt-
ing, but it isn't that bad. Cross the bridge below the waterfall and follow the switchbacks
up the scree gully. As you ascend, enjoy distant views of Ancohuma and Illampu. After
two hours or so you'll reach
Mil Curvas
(4800m), another high pass.
From the pass, traverse gently uphill to the left until you gain the ridge, which affords
great views of the Cordillera Real to the south and Cuchillo II to the north. At this point
the obvious trail descends past a small lake before arriving at a larger lake with a good
view of Akamani.
Climb up to the next ridge before descending an hour to the small mining settlement of
Viscachani
, where you'll strike the 4WD track toward Hilo Hilo (aka Illo Illo). In another
hour this road ascends to the
Cumbre Viscachani
pass (4900m), which also provides su-
