Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The route to
Nido de Cóndores
(5400m), a rock platform beside the glacier, is a four-
to six-hour slog up a rock ridge from Puente Roto. There's no water at Nido de Cóndores,
so you'll have to melt snow - bring sufficient stove fuel.
From Nido de Cóndores you need to set off at about 2am. Follow the path in the snow
leading uphill from the camp; the path grows narrower and steeper, then flattens out a bit
before becoming steeper again. It then crosses a series of crevasses before ascending to
the right to reach a level section. From here, aim for the large break in the skyline to the
left of the summit, taking care to avoid the two major crevasses, and cross one steep sec-
tion that is iced over from July onwards. After you pass through the skyline break, turn
right and continue up onto the summit ridge. The final three vertical meters involve walk-
ing 400m along the ridge at over 6400m elevation.
Plan on six to 10 hours for the climb from Nido de Cóndores to the summit and three to
four hours to descend back to camp.
If possible continue down from Nido de Cóndores to Puente Roto on the same day. The
1000m descent is not appealing after a long day, but your body will thank you the follow-
ing day and will recover more quickly at the lower altitude. You'll also avoid having to
melt snow for a second night.
On the fourth day you can walk from Puente Roto back out to Pinaya in about two
hours.
Condoriri Massif
The massif known as Condoriri is actually a cluster of 13 peaks ranging in height from
5100m to 5648m. The highest of these is
Cabeza del Cóndor
(Head of the Condor),
which has twin winglike ridges flowing from either side of the summit. Known as Las
Alas (The Wings), these ridges cause the peak to resemble a condor lifting its wings on
takeoff. According to local legend, the massif is the last refuge of the biggest and most fe-
rocious condors in the Andes, which kidnap children and educate them to become 'man-
condors' and then return them to the human population to bring terror and death.
Cabeza del Cóndor is a challenging climb following an exposed ridge, and should be at-
tempted only by experienced climbers. However, a number of other peaks in the Condoriri
Massif, including the beautiful Pequeño Alpamayo (5370m), can be attempted by begin-
ners with a competent guide.
The hike to the glacier is fun for non-climbers.
