Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ing climb back up) and seek out the small Iskanwaya museum in the village itself, which
contains artifacts from the site. Admission is free but donations are expected.
The major but near-forgotten ruins of Iskanwaya, on the western slopes of the Cor-
dillera Real, sit in a cactus-filled canyon, perched 250m above the Río Llica. Thought to
date from between 1145 and 1425, the site is attributed to the Mollu culture.
While Iskanwaya isn't exactly another Machu Picchu, the 13-hectare site is outwardly
more impressive than Tiwanaku. This large citadel was built on two platforms and flanked
by agricultural terraces and networks of irrigation canals. It contains more than 70 build-
ings, plus delicate walls, narrow streets, small plazas, storerooms, burial sites and niches.
For more information ask around Acuapata for Señor Jorge Albarracín, who is passion-
ate about the area and the Iskanwaya ruins, or Marcelo Calamani, who can guide you to
the ruins and speaks a little English. You can get in touch with them on the village tele-
phone ( 213-5519). For background reading, Iskanwaya: La Ciudadela que Sólo Vivía
de Noche, by Hugo Boero Roja (1992), contains photos, maps and diagrams of the site,
plus information on nearby villages.
Sleeping & Eating
There's a small alojamiento (r per person B$15) behind the church. For meals there's
only a small eatery on the corner of the plaza where you'll get whatever happens to be
available. Be sure to bring small change or you're likely to clean out the town.
Hotel Iskanwaya $
( 2-213-5519; r per person B$35) Aucapata's smart-looking hotel has clean rooms and
hot showers.
HOTEL
Getting There & Away
Aucapata lies about 20km northeast of Quiabaya and 50km northwest of Sorata, but is
most easily reached from La Paz. A Trans Provincia del Norte ( 238-2239) bus de-
parts at 5am from Reyes Cardona in the cemetery district of La Paz every Tuesday and
Friday (B$35, 10 hours). You might have better luck getting transportation from more ac-
cessible Charazani, or getting off a Charazani-bound bus at the cruce (turnoff) for Au-
capata, but don't bank on it.
There's also rather difficult access from Sorata, which involves a four-day hike via
Paya- yunga. Guides are available in Sorata. One other access route, which is quite chal-
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