The Cordilleras & Yungas - Bolivia - page 219

One hour below the tambo is the hamlet of Estancia Samaña Pampa , where there's a
store selling water, a grassy campsite, a shelter and another registration hut.
A short way further on, basic supplies are available at the village of Chucura (Achura;
3600m). Here you pay a toll of B$10 for maintenance of the trail - you will notice the dif-
ference it makes as you head on. An hour's walk from here leads to some campsites (per
person B$10) , which are found along the river. The sites are nice, but you might wish to
push on down the beautifully paved Inca road to Cha'llapampa (2825m), a lovely village
with a roofed campsite and simple shelters approximately seven hours from the trail's start
point. There are toilets, and water is available from a convenient stream below a bridge
close to town.
After two hours following beautiful but slippery stretches of pre-Columbian paving,
you'll reach a suspension bridge across the Río Chucura at Choro (2200m). The track
continues descending steadily along the true left (west) side of the Río Chucura, where
there are some small campsites (per person B$10) and a store providing drinks and
snacks.
From the ridge above Choro, the trail alternately plunges and climbs from sunny hill-
sides to vegetation-choked valleys, crossing streams and waterfalls. You'll have to ford
the Río Jucumarini , which can be rather intimidating in the wet season. Further along,
the trail crosses the deep gorge of the Río Coscapa via the relatively sturdy Puente Col-
gante suspension bridge.
The trail continues through some tiny hamlets, including San Francisco and Buena
Vista , which are separated by the stiff ascent and descent of the Subida del Diablo . Some
five to six hours from Choro is the remarkable Casa Sandillani (2050m), a home surroun-
ded by beautifully manicured Japanese gardens with a view. You can camp here and
nearby there's also a new community project lodge, Urpuma Ecoturismo (
7258-4359; [e-mail] ; dm B$80, s/d B$100/200) ; it's best to book ahead. Built
from natural resources available in the area, the atmospheric wattle and thatch rooms are
comfortable. Rates include breakfast as well as a guided walk, and dinner is also avail-
able. Even if you're not staying, you can use the toilets for a nominal fee. There are also
several snack and soft-drink stalls, and a clear water supply is provided by a pipe located
diagonally opposite Casa Sandillani (to the right, 20m along the main trail).
From Casa Sandillani it's an easy 2½ hours downhill to Chairo , where camping is pos-
sible in a small, flat, grassed area with no facilities, near the bridge above town.
It's possible to walk the relatively level 12km past the Río Selva Resort or take trans-
portation from Chairo to Yolosa (16km) and then catch an onward service the 7km to
Coroico . A few private vehicles head to Yolosa and Coroico on most days, but beware of
being charged scandalous prices. Don't pay more than B$170 - you could call a cab in