Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
one elaborately decorated lintel and some larger stone blocks bearing intriguing geometric
designs are the only available clues. It has been postulated - and dubiously 'proven' - that
they were derived from universal mathematical constants, such as pi, but some archaeolo-
gists simply see the plans for a large and well-designed building.
Across the railway line southwest of the Tiwanaku site, you'll see the excavation site of
Puma Punku (Gateway of the Puma). In this temple area megaliths weighing more than
130 tons have been discovered. Like Kalasasaya and Akapana, there is evidence that
Puma Punku was begun with one type of material and finished with another; part was con-
structed of enormous sandstone blocks and, during a later phase of construction, notched
and jointed basalt blocks were added.
Note also, in the distance of the site's northern boundary, the sukakollo, a highly soph-
isticated system of terraced irrigation.
Tours
Guided tours ( 7524-3141; tiwanakuguias_turismo@hotmail.com ; B$80 for 1-6
people) are available in English and Spanish, and are highly recommended.
Festivals & Events
On June 21 (the southern hemisphere's winter solstice), when the rays of the rising sun
shine through the temple entrance on the eastern side of the complex, the Aymará New
Year (Machaq Mara) is celebrated at Tiwanaku. As many as 5000 people, including a
large contingent of New Agers, arrive from all over the world. Locals don colorful cere-
monial dress and visitors are invited to join the party, drink singani (alcoholic spirit),
chew coca, sacrifice llamas and dance until dawn. Artisans hold a crafts fair to coincide
with this annual celebration.
Special buses leave La Paz around 4am to arrive in time for sunrise. Dress warmly be-
cause the pre-dawn hours are bitterly cold at this time of year.
Smaller, traditional, less tourist-oriented celebrations are held here for the other solstice
and equinoxes.
Sleeping & Eating
You'll find several basic eateries near the ruins. Tiwanaku village, 1km west of the ruins,
has several marginal restaurants and an incredibly colorful Sunday market.
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