La Paz & Around - Bolivia - page 146

Getting There & Away
For the start of this hike, you need to reach Huni, which is served only by micros and
trufis heading for Ventilla and Palca. These leave at least once daily from near the corner
of Boquerón and Lara, two blocks north of Plaza Líbano in the San Pedro district of La
Paz. There's no set schedule, but most leave in the morning - be there by 7am. You'll
have the best luck on Saturday and Sunday, when families make excursions into the coun-
tryside. Alternatively, take micro 42 or minibus 385, marked 'Ovejuyo/Apaña,' get off at
the end of the line, and slog the 1.5km up the road to Paso Huni.
From Palca back to La Paz, you'll find occasional camiones, micros and minibuses,
particularly on Sunday afternoon, but don't count on anything after 3pm or 4pm. Alternat-
ively, you can hike to Ventilla, an hour uphill through a pleasant eucalyptus plantation,
and try hitchhiking from there.
If you arrive in Palca geared up for more hiking, you can always set off from Ventilla
along the Takesi trek.
Chacaltaya
The 5395m-high Cerro Chacaltaya peak atop a former glacier (it diminished over several
decades and, tragically, had melted completely by 2009), is a popular day trip. Until the
'big melt,' it was the world's highest 'developed' ski area. It's a steep 90-minute ride from
central La Paz, and the accessible summit is an easy 200m ascent from there.
You can get your thrills, spills (well, hopefully not) and great views on a 60km-plus
mountain-bike trip from Chacaltaya to Zongo and beyond at descents of up to 4100m
(vertical drop). La Paz bike outfitters run trips for around B$800 per person.
For visitors and hikers, Chacaltaya offers spectacular views of La Paz, Illimani, Mur-
urata and 6088m Huayna Potosí. It's a high-altitude, relatively easy (but steep) 100m or so
climb from the lodge to the summit of Chacaltaya. Remember to carry warm clothing and
water, and take plenty of rests - say, a 30-second stop every 10 steps or so, and longer
stops if needed - even if you don't feel tired. If you start to feel light-headed, sit down and
rest until the feeling passes. If it doesn't, you may be suffering from mild altitude sick-
ness; the only remedy is to descend.
From Chacaltaya it's possible to walk to Refugio Huayna Potosí, at the base of Huayna
Potosí, in half a day. Before you set out, you must obtain maps from Instituto Geográfico
Militar ( Click here ) and instructions.