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neighborhood before popping out at Westerkerk under the tallest
spire in the city.
Pedal south to the lush and peaceful Vondelpark, then cut back
through the center of town (Leidseplein to the Mint Tower, along
Rokin street to Dam Square). From there, cruise the Red Light
District, following Oudezijds Voorburgwal past the Old Church
(Oude Kerk) to Zeedijk street, and return to the train station.
Then, you can escape into the countryside by hopping on the
free ferry behind Central Station (see below). In five minutes,
Amsterdam will be gone, and you'll be rolling through your very
own Dutch painting.
Taking Bikes Across the Harbor on a Free Ferry Behind
Central Station is a little commuter port where four ferries come
and go constantly (free, bikes welcome, signs count down the min-
utes until the next departure), offering two quick little excursions.
The middle two ferries run immediately across the harbor (3-min
ride). Bring your bike and ride two kilometers (1.25 miles) along the
canal, through suburbs, and then into the polderland and villages.
Ferries leaving from the far-left “NDSM” wharf cruise 10
minutes across the North Sea Canal (2/hr, generally departing
at :15 and :45). This gives a fun look at the fifth-biggest harbor in
Europe (Rotterdam is number one), old wheat silos now renovated
into upscale condos, and the shoreline of north Amsterdam, where
the planned metro connection to the center is bringing growth,
with lots of new apartments under construction. The ferry deposits
you in an industrial wasteland (a vacant old warehouse just past the
modern MTV headquarters building is filled with artist studios,
wacky ventures, and a noisy skateboard hall). IJ-Kantine is a fine
modern restaurant/café 30 yards from the ferry landing (daily from
9:00, tel. 020/633-7162).
By Public Minibus
For a quick, do-it-yourself public-bus tour along scenic
Prinsengracht (Prince's Canal), catch Amsterdam's cute little Stop/
Go minibus. It arcs along the city's longest canal, offering clever
budget travelers a very cheap and fun 20-minute experience that's
faster than a touristy canal tour. The scenic bus ride goes where
normal big buses can't fit (along the bumpy and cobbled canal-
side lanes), giving you a delightful look at the workaday city—
without a tourist in sight. The high ride, comfortable seats, and big
windows show you Amsterdam well.
The Stop/Go route follows the outside of the canal counter-
clockwise and returns clockwise along the inside. The buses have
no set stops—just wave them down. Grab a seat in the back for
the best view. If you see something fun, just jump out—there's
another bus in 12 minutes (2 strips or €1, tickets valid one hour,
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