Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
such as orange peel or coriander.
Trappist Beers:
For centuries, between their vespers and matins,
Trappist monks have been brewing heavily fermented, malty
beers. Three typical Trappist beers (from the Westmalle mon-
astery) are Trippel, with a blonde color, served cold with a
frothy head; Dubbel, which is dark, sweet, and served cool;
and Single, made especially by the monks for the monks, and
considered a fair trade for a life of celibacy. Other Trappist
monasteries include Rochefort, Chimay, and Orval. Try the
Trappist Blauwe Chimay—extremely smooth, milkshake-
like, and complex.
Strong Beers:
The potent brands include Duvel (meaning “devil,”
because of its high octane, camouf laged by a pale color),
Verboten Vrucht (“forbidden fruit,” with Adam and Eve on
the label), and the not-for-the-fainthearted brands of Judas,
Satan, and Lucifer. Gouden Carolus is good and Delerium
Tremens speaks for itself.
Mass-Produced Beers:
Connoisseurs say you should avoid the
mass-produced labels (Leffe, Stella, and Hoegaarden—all
owned by InBev, which just bought Budweiser in America)
when you can enjoy a Belgian microbrew (like Chimay)
instead.
RESTAURANTS
Bruges' specialties include mussels cooked a variety of ways (one
order can feed two), fish dishes, grilled meats, and french fries.
Don't eat before 19:30 unless you like eating alone (or with other
tourists).
Tax and service are always included in your bill (though
a 5-10 percent tip is appreciated). You can't get free tap water;
Belgian restaurateurs are emphatic about that. While tap water
comes with a smile in Holland, France, and Germany, it's not the
case in Belgium, where you'll either pay for water, enjoy the beer,
or go thirsty.
You'll find plenty of affordable, touristy restaurants on floodlit
squares and along dreamy canals. Bruges feeds 3.5 million tourists
a year, and most are seduced by a high-profile location. These can
be fine experiences for the magical setting and views, but the qual-
ity of food and service will likely be low. I wouldn't blame you for
eating at one of these places, but I won't recommend any. I prefer
the candle-cool bistros that flicker on back streets. Here are my
favorites:
Rock Fort
is a chic, eight-table spot with a modern, fresh
coziness and a high-powered respect for good food. Two young
chefs, Peter Laloo and Hermes Vanliefde, give their French
