Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
and goods soon f lowed through Antwerp, then Amsterdam, as
Bruges' North Sea port silted up. After these developments, Bruges
began four centuries of economic decline. The city was eventually
mothballed. It was later discovered by modern-day tourists to be
remarkably well-pickled—which explains its current affluence.
The balcony to the left of the main altar is part of the
Gruuthuse mansion next door, providing the noble family with
prime seats for Mass.
Excavations in 1979 turned up fascinating grave paintings on
the tombs below and near the altar. Dating from the 13th century,
these show Mary represented as Queen of Heaven (on a throne,
carrying a crown and scepter) and Mother of God (with the baby
Jesus on her lap). Since Mary is in charge of advocating with Jesus
for your salvation, she's a good person to have painted on the wall
of your tomb. Tombs also show lots of angels—generally patron
saints of the dead person—swinging thuribles (incense burners).
• Just across Mariastraat from the church entrance is the entry to the St.
John's Hospital's Visitors Center (with a good Internet café and a €0.30
public WC). The entrance to the Memling Museum, which fills that
hospital 's church, is 20 yards south (to the left) on Mariastraat.
memling museum
This medieval hospital contains some much-loved paintings by the
greatest of the Flemish Primitives, Hans Memling. His
Mystical
Wedding of St. Catherine
triptych deserves a close look. Catherine
and her “mystical groom,” the baby Jesus, are flanked by a head-
less John the Baptist and a pensive John the Evangelist. The chairs
are there so you can study it. If you know the Book of Revelation,
you'll understand St. John's wild and intricate vision. The St.
Ursula Shrine, an ornate little mini-church in the same room, is
filled with impressive detail.
J
See Memling Museum Tour on page 353.
• Continue south (with the museum behind you, turn right) about 150
yards on Mariastraat. Turn right on Walstraat (a small black-and-
white sign points the way to Minnewater and the Begijnhof). It leads
into the pleasant square called Walplein, where you'll find the...
De Halve maan brewery Tour
If you like beer, take a tour here (Walplein 26). See page 324.
• Leaving the brewery, head right, make your first right, and you'll see
a pedestrian bridge on the right. From here, the lacy cuteness of Bruges
crescendos as you approach the Begijnhof.
begijnhof
Begijnhofs
(pronounced gutturally: buh-HHHINE-hof) were built
to house women of the lay order, called Beguines, who spent their
