Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
here harness the power of the
wind to turn Archimedes' screws,
which, by rotating in a t ube,
pump water up over a dike and
into the sea—continuing to drain
reclaimed
polder
land. Nearby are
big vats used to cure fishing nets
and a smokehouse where you can
pick up a tasty snack: smoked her-
ring (€1.50) or eel (€4).
Next, circle around to the
urban canal
zone (near the pavil-
ion), lined with shops—such as a bakery, gift shop, and cheese
shop where 15,000 clumps of Gouda could be aged. Don't miss the
pharmacy (marked
Apotheke “De Groote
Gaper,”
under the queen with her mouth
hanging open). Past the counter where
the pharmacist weighs out little bottles
of camphor, you'll find a room full of
open-mouthed giant heads. Traditionally,
Dutch pharmacies were marked by a
head with a gaping mouth (opening wide
to say “aaaah” for the doctor, or for tak-
ing a pill). Many of these original heads
are dark-skinned—since medicine, like
people from the east or south of Europe,
was considered mysterious and magical.
A nearby theater shows a dramatic film that includes some grainy
black-and-white footage of traditional Zuiderzee life (with English
subtitles). As you curl around along the little canal, you'll find other
trades represented, such as a barber and a cooper (barrel-maker).
Afterwards, head into the
church district,
surrounding a
reconstructed church dating from the 15th century. Because local
builders were more familiar with boats than buildings, stand-
ing inside this church feels like being under an overturned boat
(a common feeling in many Dutch village churches). Around
the church are more shops, including the blacksmith. Don't miss
the schoolhouse, with two period classrooms: one from 1905 and
another from 1930. Just across the canal from the church area is
a big self-service restaurant, with indoor and outdoor seating (€3
sandwiches, €5-10 meals).
Finally, walk toward the cute, enclosed
harbor,
filled with
Zuiderzee watercraft from ages past (just beyond it is a modern
harbor, filled with pleasure boats). The little cluster of houses just
beyond the harbor (where you can pay €1 to see a rope-making
demonstration) is based on the island village of Marken (see
page 285).
