Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
predictable middle ground. This makes your eye probe deeply into
the canvas, subconsciously immersing you in Vermeer's world.
Rembrandt, The Anatomy Lesson of Dr. Nicolaes Tulp (1632):
Notice Rembrandt's uniquely engaging version of a (typically dull)
group portrait—inquisitive faces lean in, hanging on the doctor's
every word. The cadaver resembles a notorious criminal of the day.
For more on Rembrandt, see page 123.
Rembrandt, Portrait of an Elderly Man (1667): Painted when
Rembrandt was 61, this portrait is typical of his style: The clothes
are painted lightly, but the face is caked on. Look closely at his
ruddy cheeks, built up by layer after layer of paint, carefully slath-
ered on by the master.
Peter Paul Rubens, Old Woman and a Boy with Candles
(c. 1616-1617): In this touching scene, the elderly woman passes
her light to the boy—encouraging him to enjoy life in a way that
she perhaps hasn't. Her serene smile suggests her hope that he
won't have the same regrets she does.
Frans Hals, Laughing Boy (c. 1625): This loveable painting
depicts an exuberant scamp grinning widely despite his decaying
teeth and rat's-nest hair. Like Girl with a Pearl Earring, this is a
“tronie,” or character study, rather than a portrait of an important
person. For more on Frans Hals, see page 224.
Jan Steen, Girl Eating Oysters (c. 1658-1660): This seem-
ingly innocent scene—a still life combined with a portrait, on the
smallest canvas Steen ever painted—is loaded with 17th-century
sexual innuendo. Oysters were considered a powerful aphrodisiac,
and behind the subject, peeking through the curtains, we can see a
bed. Her impish grin seals the deal that she's got more than shell-
fish on her mind.
And Lots More: These paintings are just the beginning. Look
around to find works by Jan Breughel the Elder (a painting of
the Garden of Eden, done jointly with Rubens), Hans Holbein,
Anthony van Dyck, Hans Memling, and many other famous
painters. The gallery also hosts good temporary exhibits.
Prison Tower Museum (Gevangenpoort) —This torture
museum, in a 13th-century gatehouse that once protected a castle
on the site of today's parliament,
shows the medieval l mind at its
worst. First you'll watch a 20-minute
film (with English subtitles) about
a famous prisoner, then you'll tour
the sight with a required 40-minute
tour (usually in Dutch, but you can
buy a €1 English guidebook). You'll
get the f ful l l stor y on crime and
punishment here from 1420 to 1823
 
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