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extravaganza (€10-12 entrées, daily from 17:30, kitchen closes at
21:30, wine by the glass, order at the counter, Nieuwe Leliestraat
162, tel. 020/625-2041).
To p T h a i , a block from Hotel Toren, offers top-quality
meals for €20 (less for takeout) in their cozy, 10-table restaurant
(daily 16:00-22:30, good veggie options, Herenstraat 22, tel. 020/
623-4633).
Toscana Italian Restaurant is the Jordaan's favorite place
for good, inexpensive Italian cuisine, including pizza, in a woody
Dutch-beer-hall setting (€6-8 pizza and pastas, €15 main courses,
daily 16:00-24:00, Haarlemmerstraat 130, tel. 020/622-0353).
Sara's Pancake House is a basic pancake diner where
extremely hardworking Sara cranks out sweet and savory €8-10
flapjacks (open daily from early until late, breakfast served until
noon, Raadhuisstraat 45, tel. 020/320-0662).
Bistro 't Stuivertje is a small, family-run neighborhood
favorite tucked away in the Jordaan, serving French-Dutch cuisine
in a cozy but unpretentious atmosphere (€15 main courses, dinner
salads, Wed-Sun 17:30-22:00, closed Mon-Tue, Hazenstraat 58
near Elandsgracht, tel. 020/623-1349).
Ristorante Toscanini is an up-market Italian place that's
always packed. It's so popular that the staff can be a bit arrogant,
but the lively, spacious ambience and great Italian cuisine more
than make up for that—if you can get a seat. Reservations are
essentially required. Your best bet is to eat when they open at 18:00
(€14 first courses, €20 main courses, Mon-Sat 18:00-22:30, closed
Sun, deep in the Jordaan at Lindengracht 75, tel. 020/623-2813).
Drinks Only: Café 't Papeneiland is a classic brown café
with Delft tiles, an evocative old stove, and a stay-awhile perch
overlooking a canal with welcoming benches. It's been the neigh-
borhood hangout since the 17th century (drinks but no food, over-
looking northwest end of Prinsengracht at #2, tel. 020/624-1989).
It feels a little exclusive; patrons who come here to drink and chat
aren't eager to see it overrun by tourists. The café's name means
“Papists' Island,” since this was once a refuge for Catholics; there
used to be an escape tunnel here for priests on the run.
IN SOUTHwEST AmSTERdAm
Near Leidseplein
Stroll through the colorful cancan of eateries on Leidsedwarsstraat,
Restaurant Row, just off Leidseplein, and choose your favorite.
Nearby, the busy Leidsestraat offers plenty of starving-student
options (between the Prinsengracht and the Herengracht) offering
fast and fun food for around €5 a meal.
 
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