Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
without it.) Atop the brass choir screen, an inscription ('t misbruyk
in Godes...) commemorates the iconoclasm: “The false practices
introduced into God's church were undone here in 1578.”
The church, permanently stripped of “pope-ish” decoration,
was transformed from Catholic to Dutch Reformed, the name St.
Nicholas' Church was dropped, and it became known by the nick-
name everyone called it anyway—the Old Church.
Around the Old Church
The church is surrounded by prostitution, yes, but there are
other things as well—namely, everyday life. Attached to the Old
Church like barnacles are small buildings, originally homes for
priests, church offices, or rental units. The house to the right of the
entrance (at #25), inhabited by an elderly woman, is very tiny—32
feet by 8 feet. Remember, someone lives here—be discreet.
• Walk along the church to the right, heading toward the canal. Passing
Belle, a monument to “sex workers around the world,” and a bronze
breast in the pavement, you reach a green metal urinal that gets a lot of
use. From the urinal by the canal, go half a block down the canal to just
before the first intricately painted Bulldog Café (coffeeshop), and turn
right at a narrow alleyway. Take a deep breath and squeeze into this
tight opening.
Prostitutes in Narrow Alleyways
You're right in the thick of high-density sleaze. Several narrow
streets are lined with panty-and-bra-clad women in the windows
winking at horny men, rapping on the window to attract atten-
tion, or looking disdainfully at
sightseers. You may notice that
different zones feature prosti-
tutes from different lands—Asia,
Africa, Eastern Europe. This
is to cater to customer tastes, as
regulars know what they want.
The area sure looks rough,
but, aside from tricky pickpock-
ets, these streets are actually very
safe. The entire Red Light District is dotted with teeny-tiny video
surveillance cameras, located above doorways and in narrow alleys.
If prostitutes have or notice any trouble, they press a buzzer that
swiftly unleashes a burly, angry bouncer or the police.
There are other pockets of prostitution around, but this is one
of the most concentrated. Explore.
• Double-back to the Old Church on Sint Annendwarsstraat. Now
start to circle the church clockwise. Around the back (on Oudekerksplein),
you'll see older, plumper (and cheaper) prostitutes.
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