Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The Marvels of Medieval Milan
De Magnalibus Mediolani
(The Marvels of Medieval Milan) was written in 1288 by Milan-
ese monk Bonvesin de la Riva. In his proud depiction of his home town's finest features,
Bonvesin gives us a rare insight into one of Europe's largest medieval cities and its surpris-
ingly rich diet.
Butchers, fishmongers and bakers were important men, members of powerful organised
guilds, and it's no wonder when you consider the animals, wild birds, poultry, fruits and
fish they supplied. Dishes such as
nervetti
(veal cartilage),
busecca
(tripe stew),
bollito
(boiled meats) and
carpione
(fried, floured fish) were becoming standard and Bonvesin
also lists damascene plums, early figs, hyssop and white horehound, exotic ingredients
even by today's standards. And already land-locked Milan was one of the best places in
Italy to eat fish, thanks to its access to the northern lakes. There was even an abundant sup-
ply of prawns from the city's moat.
To accompany this medieval city guide, Bonvesin wrote
Fifty Courtesies at Table
. With
this in hand, city sophisticates could avoid such faux pas as sneezing into the communal
plate, and were reminded to wipe their mouths before drinking from the communal goblet.
Good manners were no longer the preserve of aristocrats, but a badge of success for the up-
wardly mobile middle class.
BEYOND PASTA
Some 50 varieties of rice are grown in the Po valley, making rice the number one staple in northern Italy. Sure,
pasta (an import from the south in the 17th century) abounds, but a risotto has more cachet than pasta ever will.
Among the best known is
carnaroli,
a medium-grain rice mostly grown in Piedmont. Others, such as arborio (a
short grain) and
vialone nano
(a thicker grain), are grown around Pavia - the rice capital of Italy.
How should we count the ways of preparing risotto? The Milan standard is with saffron and a meat broth. In
Pavia a speciality is
risotto con le rane
(with crispy fried frogs).
Risotto al porcini
(with porcini mushrooms) is a
universal favourite, while risottos done with wines as a base, such as Barolo or Amarone, are typical in wine re-
gions. In Mantua,
risotto alla pilota
(with minced pork) is a signature dish and seafood variations from the Veneto
include
risotto al nero
(with black octopus or squid ink).
