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garden in Italy, its multi-layered meaning and hell's-mouth grotto hinting at the powerful,
primitive forces that lurk beneath the polished veneer of the villa.
TOP TIPPLES
Allegrini ( 045 683 20 11; www.allegerini.it ; Via Giare 9/11, Fumane; tours €12-60; by appointment;
) Valpolicella aristocracy, the Allegrini family have been producing grand crus from corvinia and rondinella
grapes since the 16th century.
Fratelli Vogadori (
328 941 72 28; www.amaronevalpolicella.org ; Via Vigolo 16, Negrar;
by appoint-
ment) Producing just 10,000 bottles each year, the eponymous Vogadori brothers use organic methods and
unusual native varieties such as Oseleta and Negrara.
Massimago ( 045 888 01 43; www.massimago.com ; Via Giare 21, Mezzane di Sotto; 9am-3.30pm
Mon-Fri) Breaking the traditional mould, Camilla Chauvet concentrates on a limited range of lighter, more mod-
ern valpolicellas at her winery-come-relais, including a rosé and an unusual sparkling variety.
Valentina Cubi (
045 770 18 06; www.valentinacubi.it ; Località Casterna 60, Fumane;
by appointment)
This teacher-come-winemaker is blazing a trail with one of the few certified organic wineries in the region.
The San Cero is one of few 'natural' valpolicellas, which includes no sulphates at all.
Eating
L'Antica Osteria Le Piere
( 045 884 10 30; Via Nicolini 43, Mizzole; meals €15; noon-2.30pm & 7-10pm) In this large stone
mansion in the village of Mizzole, self-trained chef Maurizio Poerio serves hearty three-
course lunches to villagers and vineyard workers. Seasonal wild asparagus, wild game and
smoky cured ham accompany a 250-bottle wine list.
OSTERIA
Osteria Numero Uno
OSTERIA €€
( 045 770 13 75; www.osterianumero1.com ; Via Flaminio Pellegrini 2, Fumane; meals €15-30; noon-2.30pm &
7-10.30pm Thu-Mon, noon-2.30pm Tue) The archetypal osteria with a wooden bar packed with
overall-clad vintners and delicious aromas wafting out of the kitchen. Glasses of valpoli-
cella range from just €2 to €5 for a good Amarone. Pair them salty speck and belly-filling
duck with wild garlic and gnocchi.
Trattoria Caprini
TRATTORIA €€
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