Lake Garda & Around - The Italian Lakes - page 350

( 0365 2 08 32; Piazza Garibaldi 2; set menu €20, meals €35; 11am-11pm Wed-Mon) A shaded terrace,
rattan chairs and burgundy tablecloths set the scene for some classic Lake Garda cooking.
Tempting choices include veal ravioli, sardines with potatoes and herbs, and fettucine with
smoked eel. As Agli Angeli is tucked into the hillside on the way to Il Vittoriale, it makes
an ideal post-sightseeing stop.

Toscolano-Maderno
POP 8000
Straddling the Toscolano torrent are the twin hamlets of Toscolano and Maderno, strung
together by a mile-long beach, the largest on Lake Garda. To the southwest, pretty, pastel-
coloured Maderno marks the location of Benacum, the principal Roman town on the lake,
while more industrial Toscolano, to the northeast, once supplied nails for Venetian galleys
and thick, creamy paper for Martin Luther's Bible. For more info see
www.prolocotoscolanomaderno.com .
Aside from its picturesque setting on a nubby headland at the foot of Monte Pizzocolo
(1582m), the villages retain some fine period churches, the 12th-century Chiesa di
Sant'Andrea (Piazza San Marco) and the Renaissance sanctuary and church of the Madonna
del Benaco (Piazza Caduti) and Santi Pietro e Paolo (Piazza S Maria del Benaco), both of which
are frescoed. Down by the water, the long promenade is backed by a shady camping area
and is well supplied with bike and boat hire outlets like Garda Yachting Charter ( www.gyc.it ) .
The Toscolano torrent upstream fed numerous paper mills in the Middle Ages and you
can follow the riverside road up the wooded Valle delle Cartiere and explore their peaceful ru-
ins. The largest of them is now the Museo della Carta ( www.valledellecartiere.it ; Via Valle delle Cartiere;
adult/reduced €5/3; 10am-6pm May-Sep, to 6pm Sat & Sun Mar-May & Oct) . Further up, towards the top
of the valley, there are plenty of opportunities for swimming.
Also set back from the lakeside are the two idyllic villages of Gaino and Cecina . In the
former you'll find Agriturismo Scuderia Castello (

0365 64 41 01; www.scuderiacastello.it ; Via Castello 10,

Gaino; s €45-50, d €70-80; ) , where you can spend the night overlooking the lake, or join
one of its mountain horse treks (€20/160 per half/full day).

Gargnano
POP 3000