Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
man. In the 1920s d'Annunzio became a strong supporter of Fascism and Mussolini, while
his affairs with wealthy women were legendary.
By 1914 d'Annunzio was an established poet, but his fame was cemented by a series of
daring military adventures in WWI. His most dramatic exploit was an unsanctioned occu-
pation of Fiume, now Rijeka, on the Adriatic. Outraged that it was about to be handed
over to Yugoslavia, not Italy, at the end of the war, he gathered a mini-army, invaded the
port and proclaimed himself the ruler. Despite eventually surrendering he was hailed a na-
tional hero.
In his main house, the
Prioria
, black velvet drapes and stained glass windows cast an
eerie light on gloomy rooms (he had an eye condition that made exposure to sunlight pain-
ful) crammed with classical figurines, leather-bound books, leopard skins, gilded orna-
ments, lacquer boxes and chinoiserie. Highlights include the bronze tortoise that sits on
the guests' dining table (in admonition of overeaters, it was cast from a pet that died of
overeating); the bright blue bathroom suite with over 2000 pieces of bric-a-brac; his spare
bedroom where he would retire to lie on a coffin-shaped bed and contemplate death; and
his study with its low lintel - designed so visitors would have to bow as they entered.
Guided visits, in Italian only, tour the house every 10 minutes and last half an hour.
If you aren't already overwhelmed by d'Annuzio's excesses, the estate's
Museo della
Guerra
is housed nearby in the art nouveau Casa Schifamondo ('Escape from the World').
It is full of mementoes, banners and medals of d'Annunzio's war-time exploits, while the
gardens
offer the chance to wander the deck of the full-sized battleship
Puglia
, which
d'Annunzio used in the Fiume adventure.
Eating
Antico Brolo
( 0365 214 21;
www.ristoranteanticobrolo.it
; Via Carere 10; tasting menu €38, meals €35-45; noon-2.30pm &
7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sun)
If you're considering a date night, Antico Brolo is the place for you,
with seating in an intimate walled courtyard or better still on a tiny balcony frothing with
pink geraniums overlooking Gardone. The food is as elegant as the surroundings, serving
tiny amuse-bouche and nouvelle plates of steamed fish and truffle pasta.
OSTERIA
€€
Locanda Agli Angeli
GARDESE
€€
