Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The walls had been largely engulfed by vegetation until a volunteer organisation 're-
leased' them from this green captivity in the 1990s, restoring them to their full majesty.
Begun in the 12th century and constantly improved and expanded in the following centur-
ies, especially under Visconti and Sforza rule, the walls are laced with passages and huge
vaulted halls, some of which have been set aside as a small museum dedicated to the
trades and traditions of local farmers. The most imposing part of the walls is known as the
Rivellino, a series of casemates once used to house artillery and dating to the 15th century.
You can wander much of the area any time.
Across the river from the main part of town is the pretty hamlet of
La Gera
.
Eating
Cascina Valentino
( 0372 74 49 91;
http://lnx.cascinavalentino.it
; Cascina Valentino 37, Pizzighettone; meals €25-35; 7-10pm
Mon-Sat & 12.30-2.30pm Sun)
On a working farm where cows are raised and asparagus is grown,
the owners also offer up fine local cooking with only the freshest in-season ingredients -
this is a real rural eating experience. Booking ahead is compulsory.
The menu changes often but you might, if you're lucky, be offered a strawberry risotto.
Mains are mostly from the farm's own meat stocks. The dining area, with dark timber fur-
niture, in the main farmhouse, is a treat in itself. It's 2km away from central Pizzighettone.
Cross the bridge east to La Gera and turn right along the river, then follow the signs along
a dirt track past a dairy farm until you reach this second dairy farm.
AGRITURISMO
€€
TOP OF CHAPTER
Lodi
POP 44,401
Capital of an essentially agricultural province, Lodi was founded in the 12th century on
the south bank of the Adda river after the original town (Lodi Vecchio, about 7km west)
was destroyed by the Milanese army.
The old town centre, unknown to the majority of travellers, is well worth a half day of
your time. From the train station, head north about 300m to Piazza Castello. The castle al-
luded to is largely gone, excepting a tall round
tower
built on Francesco Sforza's orders.
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II leads another 300m into the enormous, cobbled Piazza della
