Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Valle Camonica
Running northeast of Lake Iseo and marked by the course of the Oglio river, the Valle Ca-
monica is best known locally for easy skiing at its northern extremity, but internationally
as the sight of some quite extraordinary rock carvings, a Unesco World Heritage Site.
The rock carvings are concentrated in several sites around the small town of Capo di Ponte
( www.capodiponte.eu ) , which sits on the Oglio river. The main site is the Parco Nazionale delle In-
cisioni Rupestri ( 0364 4 21 40; www.arterupestre.it ; Località Naquane; admission €4; 9am-5.30pm Mar-Oct,
9am-4pm Nov-Feb) , on a rise just 1km out of the town centre on the east side of the river. It is
a 30-hectare open-air museum containing a representative array of rock engravings going
as far back as the Bronze Age. Colour-coded paths lead you past vast rock slabs that seem
to have been created specifically for people to clamber around and chisel in their artistic
talent. While engravings on some are barely distinguishable, on others you see a wealth of
imagery, including animals (among them an extravagantly antlered deer) and people in
various poses. Especially rich is Rock No 1 (aka Roccia Grande). If driving, you'll be
charged €2 by enterprising local villagers to park at the start of the path.
Capo di Ponte is home to two other such parks, west of the river. One is closed for ex-
cavation, but the Parco Archeologico Comunale di Seradina Bedolina ( 334 657 5628; adult/child €2/1;
10am-5pm Fri-Wed) is also rich in engravings. To get here, head for the town cemetery in
Cemmo (you can drive or walk up from the centre), from where it's a 10-minute walk.
Also near the cemetery in Cemmo is one of the finest examples of Lombard
Romanesque, the 11th-century Pieve di San Siro ( 3-6pm Sat-Mon) , or country church. Eviden-
ce suggests there may even have been a site of worship here in Roman times. Perched
upon a rock ledge, the triple apse looks like it could easily topple into the Oglio river be-
low. The geometric, animal and floral relief decoration on the entrance and inside is en-
chanting.
The riverside town of Breno ( www.proloco-breno.it ) , 13km south of Capo di Ponte, is worth a
stop for its extensive hilltop castle ruins. It is in fact a huddle of buildings built over cen-
turies but consolidated as a defensive complex under Venetian rule from the 15th century
on.
Visit Pro Loco Capo di Ponte (
0364 4 20 80; www.proloco.capo-di-ponte.bs.it ; Via Briscioli 42, Capo di
9.30am-12.30pm Sun, Mon & holidays, 9am-noon & 2.30-4.30pm Tue-Sat) for tourist information.
Ponte;
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