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taragna (with cheese and butter). It's under the arches opposite the Upper Town Funicular
Stop, with a few wooden stools strewn around.
Antica Hosteria del Vino Buono
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BERGAMESE
( 035 24 79 93; Piazza Mercato delle Scarpe, Città Alta; meals €20-25; 7-10.30pm Tue, noon-2.30pm &
7-10.30pm Wed-Sun) Feast on typical dishes like cheese-sprinkled casoncelli (homemade pasta
cushions filled with a spicy sausage meat and laced with a buttery sage sauce) followed by
a plate of stinco al forno con polenta (baked pork shank with polenta) at this authentic
inn. A typical Bergamese antipasto served up here is schisöl (polenta cooked with cheese
and mushrooms).
La Cantina di Via Colleoni
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BERGAMESE
( 035 21 58 64; www.lacantinadiviacolleoni.it ; Via Bartolomeo Colleoni 5; meals €25-30; 10am-3pm &
6-midnight) Still going strong after 10 years, this laid-back, casual eatery and bar serves up
fine local dishes (such as cured meats, local cheeses and casoncelli ) in a warm, brick-
lined space and with a carefully chosen and very cool musical soundtrack. The excellent
lunch menu Bergamasco (Bergamo menu) for €15 includes water, wine and two courses.
Otherwise, mains include codfish with polenta.
Ristorante a Modo
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ITALIAN €€
( 035 21 02 95; www.ristoranteamodo.com ; Viale Vittorio Emanuele II 19; meals €35; noon-3pm & 8pm-mid-
night Mon-Sat) Inventive takes on modern Italian cooking make this our pick of the restaur-
ants down in the Lower Town. Try their ravioli stuffed with pumpkin or walnuts or
seabass carpaccio with crustaceans of the day. The weekday lunch menu is excellent value
at €13/17/22 for one/two/three courses.
Officina dei Sapore
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ITALIAN, SEAFOOD €€
( 035 24 76 86; www.officinaesapori.it ; Via Solata 7; meals €35-40, set menu €40-45; noon-3pm & 7-11pm
Mon-Sat) Marta and Stefano oversee this welcoming place with its intimate, old-world din-
ing area and fine seafood-dominated menu. Dishes include lobster medallions or pheasant
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