Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Mar-Oct, closed Nov-Feb; Varenna)
, a former convent turned into a vast residence by the Mor-
nico family from the 17th to the 19th centuries. In both cases, a stroll through the magnifi-
cent gardens, which reach down to the lake, is a balm for the senses. A wander through
Villa Monastero is a lesson in how well the other half can live - in the room that fronts the
bathroom, the walls are covered in finely engraved Spanish leather to protect the walls
from humidity! Magnolias (including one specimen in front of the villa said to be up to
400 years old), camellias and yucca trees are among the villas' floral highlights.
Much overlooked in all the excitement about Varenna's villas are the lovely 14th-cen-
tury frescoes, somewhat damaged but nevertheless full of colour, tucked inside the tiny
Romanesque
Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista
(Piazza San Giovanni)
. Unfortunately, finding it open is
a bit hit and miss; ask at the tourist office (
Click here
)
.
Eating
Ristorante La Vista
ITALIAN
€€
( 0341 83 02 98;
www.varenna.net/eng/ristorante-lavista.php
;
Via XX Settembre 35; 3-/4-course set menu €38/45,
meals €35-40; 7-10pm Wed-Sat & Mon mid-Mar-late Oct)
Fabulous views from the terrace high in
Varenna's old town are only half the story here. The food is fresh and inventive from a
menu that changes with the seasons, and service rarely misses a beat.
Osteria Quatro Pass
( 0341 81 50 91;
www.quattropass.com
;
Via XX Settembre 20; meals €35-40; noon-3pm & 6.30-9.30pm Jun-
Aug, Thu-Sun only Sep-May)
Places that don't have a lake view in Varenna are at a distinct dis-
advantage, which is why this place works just that extra bit harder with the food and ser-
vice. Cured meats, lake fish and other local specialities are perfectly prepared and presen-
ted.
ITALIAN
€€
Vecchia Varenna
( 0341 83 07 93;
www.vecchiavarenna.it
; Contrada Scoscesa 10; meals €35-45; 12.30-2pm & 7.30-9.30pm
Tue-Sun Feb-Dec)
Of the handful of lakeside dining options in Varenna, this is the best. Dine
on homemade little gnocchi cooked in goat-cheese cream and truffle oil, or choose from
mains of lake fish or duck breast. A dozen tables are set up in an enclosed terrace suspen-
ded over the water.
ITALIAN
€€
