Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Romanesque church), 8km further east. The brisk climb up among the vineyards affords
sweeping views across the valley. And what better way to taste Valtellina reds than by
calling into any local trattoria?
The prettiest town along the valley floor is
Tirano
, terminus for trains arriving from Mil-
an via Lake Como and others arriving from Switzerland. At its east end is the quiet old
town, with winding lanes next to the gushing Adda. About 1.5km west of the centre
stands the proud Renaissance
Santuario della Madonna
church.
The Valtellina cuts a broad swathe down the Adda valley, where villages and vineyards
hang precariously on the slopes of the Orobie Alps. The steep northern flank is carpeted
by nebbiolo grapes, which yield a light red wine. Both body and alcohol content improve
with altitude so generations of Valtenesi built upwards, carrying the soil in woven baskets
to high mountain terraces. Their reward: a DOC classification for Valtellina Superiore
since 1968. In Sondrio, it's possible to visit the cellars of
Pellizzatti Perego
(
www.arpepe.com
;
Via
Eating
Altavilla
( 0342 72 03 55;
www.altavilla.info
;
Via ai Monti 46, Bianzone; meals €30; noon-2.30pm & 7-10pm Tue-Sun,
daily Aug; )
Located in the heart of the Valtellina's finest vineyards in Bianzone, just
north of Teglio, is Altavilla, Anna Bertola's charming Alpine chalet and restaurant, one of
the gastronomic treats of the region. Expect expert wine recommendations to accompany
traditional mountain dishes such as
sciàtt
(buckwheat pancakes stuffed with Bitto cheese)
and
pizzocheri
buckwheat pasta. The artisanal salami, mountain venison and aged Bitto
cheese are particular highlights, as is the 500-label wine list.
Reserve a room (singles €25 to €42, doubles €42 to €68) for the night so you can sleep
it off afterwards.
CHALET RESTAURANT
€€
Osteria del Crotto
( 0342 61 48 00;
www.osteriadelcrotto.it
; Via Pedemontana 22; meals €25-35)
Osteria del Crotto serves a
whole slew of Slow Food Movement-authenticated products such as
violino di capra
della Valchiavenna
(literally 'violin goat of the Valchiavenna'), a traditional salami made
from the shank, which is sliced by resting it on the shoulder and shaving it as a violin
player moves his bow.
OSTERIA
€€
