Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
From Menaggio, follow the signs inland towards Lugano, but instead of heading for Switzerland, pass
Lake Piano
and then take the south (left) turn after 12km and follow the shore of Lake Lugano for
Claino-
Osteno
, a pretty lakeside village with a photogenic stone church. The road climbs steeply for 11km to
San
Fedele d'Intelvi
, which stands at the crossroads of some intriguing roads. For the first of these, follow the signs
for Lanzo d'Intelvi (6km), from where there are signs to glorious
Cima Sighignola
, also known as the Bal-
cone d'Italia (1320m), a further 6km on. Below lies all of Lugano, its lake and mountain peaks and, beyond, you
can make out part of Lake Maggiore, Varese, the Alps and the Lombard plains.
Return to San Fedele d'Intelvi, but only to follow the signs for the lovely, quiet country road to
Erbonne
(963m), a frontier hamlet that was a key crossing point for smugglers until the 1970s. The former barracks of the
Guardia di Finanza (customs police) house possibly the smallest museum in Italy (the Museo della Guardia di
Finanza e del Contrabbando) - you simply peer in through the glass door. Consider lunching at the
Osteria del
Valico
.
Return to San Fedele d'Intelvi (9km), and follow the signs to
Pigra
(7km) for more stunning views, this
time of Lake Como's southern end. Back in San Fedele d'Intelvi drive for 9km down to
Argegno
, from
where it's a 21km lakeshore drive back to
Como
.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Sala & Isola Comacina
Once the site of a Roman fort and medieval settlement, Lake Como's only island forms its
own little bay with the mainland, just offshore from Sala Comacina. When the Lombards
invaded northern Italy, the island held out as a Byzantine redoubt, and slowly filled with
houses and churches, the whole known as Cristopolis. They even say the Holy Grail was
deposited here for a time. The medieval settlement was razed by Como in 1169 as punish-
ment for its loyalty to Milan. Today, as silent witness to this terrible event, lies the scant
ruins of the
Romanesque Chiesa di Sant'Eufemia
and, next to it, the more solid remnants of the
triple apse of a pre-Romanesque church at the north end of the island, about a five-minute
stroll from the boat landing.
Eating
ITALIAN
€€
Taverna Bleu
( 0344 5 51 07;
www.tavernableu.it
; Via Puricelli 4, Sala Comicina; meals €25-30; noon-2.30pm & 7-9.30pm
Wed-Mon)
Known all over the lake for its fine fish dishes, the Blue Tavern is in a lovely spot
down from the main road at lake level in Sala Comacina. Sit in the shady gravel-and-grass
garden by the canary-yellow building that hosts indoor dining and a charming hotel. Eat à
