Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
dedicated to recounting a part of the biography of St Francis of Assisi. Some boast won-
derful frescoes while others are more modest affairs. A road also leads up from near the
tourist office if you're driving.
ISLAND
Isola San Giulio
Anchored barely 500m in front of Piazza Mario Motta is Isola San Giulio. The island is
dominated by the 12th-century
Basilica di San Giulio
(Isola San Giulio;
9.30am-6.45pm Tue-Sun,
2-5pm Mon Apr-Sep, 9.30am-noon & 2-5pm Tue-Sun & 2-5pm Mon Oct-Mar)
, full of vibrant frescoes
that alone make a trip to the island worthwhile. The frescoes mostly depict saints (and
sometimes their moment of martyrdom - St Laurence seems supremely indifferent to his
roasting on a grate). Step inside after mass, when the air is thick with incense and the fres-
coes seem to take on a whole new power.
The church, island and mainland town are named after a Greek evangelist, Giulio,
who's said to have rid the island of snakes, dragons and assorted monsters in the late 4th
century. His remains lie in the crypt of the Basilica di San Giulio.
The footpath encircling the island makes for a peaceful stroll, hence its popular name of
Via del Silenzio
. Indeed, a series of aphorisms on the wonders of silence (all very fine when
screaming school groups have the run of the place) have been placed along the way. If you
walk it clockwise, they now call it the Via della Meditazione, with a whole load of other
multilingual signs to inspire you on your search for inner peace.
Regular ferries (one way/return €2/2.85) run from Orta San Giulio's waterfront. More
expensive private launches (one way/return €4/8) also run, departing when there are suffi-
cient passengers to warrant the five-minute crossing.
Eating
Enoteca Al Boeuc
PIEDMONTESE
€
( 339 584 00 39;
http://alboeuc.beepworld.it
;
Via Bersani 28; meals €15-20; 11.30am-3pm & 6.30pm-midnight
Wed-Mon)
This candlelit stone cavern has been around since the 16th century, and in its
present incarnation you'll be served light meals to be savoured with fine wines by the
glass (eg a velvety Barolo for €8). It's a classy alternative to the clamour of the water-
front.
