Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
3-6pm Tue-Sun)
, fun for anyone who likes machines and potentially a great distraction
for kids. Collection items stretching from the 1800s include a tricycle, various horse-
drawn carriages from around Europe and beyond, a double-decker horse-drawn tram from
Milan and a strange wind-powered tram with sail (which generally had to be dragged
along by horses or oxen). Among the various steam-train locomotives and cars, there is
one that was put at the personal disposal of composer Giuseppe Verdi. Among the buses is
a wonderful 1912 Fiat. Also on show are cable cars, hot-air balloons and a recreation of a
Milan metro stop.
Aside from the transport museum, the main thing to do in Ranco is call by the fantastic
restaurant
Il Sole
( 0331 97 65 07;
www.ilsolediranco.it
; Piazza Venezia 5; meals €80-100, tasting menu €100;
noon-2.30pm & 7-10pm Wed-Sun)
, with lake views, beautiful garden and even better cooking.
Some local critics consider it among the best in Italy. It's difficult to choose: a risotto with
Parmesan froth? Lobster salad perfumed with orange,
Mozzarella di bufala
(buffalo moz-
arella)? Or perhaps the heavenly light
fritto misto
(mixed fried fish and seafood)? Leave
the thinking up to staff and opt for one of the tasting menus. Oh, and it has rooms too.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Angera
POP 5694
The Borromeo clan bought the chunky medieval
Rocca di Angera
(
www.borromeoturismo.it
; Via
Rocca Castello 2; adult/child €8.50/5, combined ticket incl Isola Bella & Isola Madre €21/10.50; 9am-6pm)
from
Milan's Visconti family in 1449 and the fortress lords over the town of Angera. Inside is
the 12-room
Museo della Bambola
, displaying the Borromeo family's priceless collection of
dolls. What better place for them than this towering, fairy-tale castle with its high, crenel-
lated walls atop a rocky outcrop? Modest vineyards cling to the slopes on the west side.
Various rooms and halls open on to the courtyard, among them the awe-inspiring Sala
della Giustizia (Hall of Justice), with its overarching vault and lively 13th-century fres-
coes. From the tower, when it's open, you have breathtaking views. The doll collection
counts more than 1000 items, while a separate collection of French and German mechan-
ical dolls and figurines (dating from 1870 to 1920) becomes highly amusing when they
are set in sometimes noisy motion. The easiest way up is by car (signposted from the
centre of Angera). By foot, follow the signs from Piazza Parrocchiale. The rest of Angera
