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the previous theatre, which burnt down in a fire after a carnival gala. Costs were covered
by the sale of palchi (private boxes), of which there are six gilt-and-crimson tiers. When
rehearsals are not in session you can stand in boxes 13, 15 and 18 for a glimpse of the
jewel-like interior.
Above the private boxes, two loggione (galleries) allow you to peek over the heads of
Milanese plutocrats at one of the largest stages in Italy. Occupants of these seats, the log-
gionisti , are the opera's fiercest critics, famously booing tenor Roberto Alagna off stage in
2006, to be hurriedly replaced by his understudy Palombi who, lacking the time to change
into full costume, appeared in his T-shirt and jeans.
In the theatre's museum MAP GOOGLE MAP (La Scala Museum; 02 433 53 521; Largo Ghir-
inghelli 1; admission €6; 9am-12.30pm & 1.30-5.30pm) , harlequin costumes and a spinet inscribed
with the command 'Inexpert hand, touch me not!' hint at centuries of Milanese musical
drama, on and off stage.
Palazzo Reale
MAP GOOGLE MAP
MUSEUM, PALACE
( www.comune.milano.it/palazzoreale ; Piazza del Duomo 12; exhibitions €5-12, Museo della Reggia free; exhibi-
tions 2.30-7.30pm Mon, 9.30am-7.30pm Tue, Wed, Fri & Sun, 9.30am-10.30pm Thu & Sat, museo 9.30am-5.30pm
Tue-Sun; Duomo) Empress Maria Theresia's favourite architect Giuseppe Piermarini gave
this town hall and Visconti palace a neoclassical overhaul in the late 18th century. The su-
premely elegant interiors were all but destroyed by WWII bombs; the Sala delle Cariatidi re-
mains unrenovated as a reminder of war's indiscriminate destruction. Now blockbuster
shows wow the crowds with artists as diverse as Titian, Bacon and Dario Fo.
ADOPT A SPIRE
The building of Milan's cathedral was such an epic feat that it necessitated the creation of a 'factory' responsible
for all operational activities and construction. That factory is the Fabbrica del Duomo, Italy's oldest company. It
has overseen the work of the Duomo's construction from 1387 until the last gate was inaugurated in January
1965.
Today it continues the enormous task of maintaining the cathedral. This is no mean feat when five million
people (and 40% of all the visitors to Milan) pass through the bronze doors each year and new austerity measures
slashed 30% off Italy's culture budget.
But now you, too, can chip in with the Fabbrica's latest inspired idea, Adopt a Spire ( www.getyourspire.com ).
This crowd-sourced campaign aims to raise some €25 million in order to restore 134 of the cathedral's fabulous
spires. Major donors (contributing €100,000) will even have their names engraved on the spires, but you can
donate as little as €10.
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