Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Humor's predominantly red-and-brown exterior frescoes (1535) are divided topically.
On the southern wall's left-hand side, patron saint the Virgin Mary is commemorated; on
the right, St Nicholas' life and miracles are captured. A badly faded depiction of the 1453
siege of Constantinople, with a parable depicting the prodigal son's return, is on the right.
St George appears on the northern wall. The porch contains a painting of the Last Judg-
ment: the long bench on which the 12 Apostles sit, the patterned towel on the chair of
judgment, and the long, hornlike
bucium
(pipe) announcing Christ's coming are all typical
Moldavian elements. The three square images in red, white and black (on the bottom
right) are unique to Humor: they represent the fire, the coldness and the darkness (or boil-
ing tar) of hell.
Humor shelters five chambers. The middle one (the tomb room) hides a treasure room
(tainiţa),
which safeguarded monastic riches. On the right-hand wall, a votive painting de-
picts Bubuiog offering (with the Virgin Mary's help) a miniature monastery replica to
Christ, a common motif in the Byzantine artistic tradition. Bubuiog's tomb (1539) is on
the room's right side, that of his wife on the left side; above the latter is a painting of his
wife praying to the Virgin Mary.
Sleeping
Dozens of homes here have rooms for rent, and nearby Gura Humorului is also a useful
base.
Maison de Bucovine $$
( 0744-373 931; Str Mănăstirea Humor 172, Gura Humorului; s/d €30/50)
This
unassuming-looking home 30m from Humor Monastery is comfortable, with clean and
modern rooms.
GUESTHOUSE
Getting There & Away
Nine daily Suceava-Gura Humorului trains operate (10 lei to 17 lei, 50 minutes). Regular
maxitaxis go the final 6km to the monastery.
VORONEŢ MONASTERY
Built in just three months and three weeks by Ştefan cel Mare following a key 1488 vic-
tory over the Turks,
Voroneţ Monastery
(adult/child 5/2 lei; 8am-7pm summer, to
4pm winter)
is the only one to have a specific colour associated with it worldwide. 'Vor-
oneţ Blue', a vibrant cerulean colour created from lapis lazuli and other ingredients, is
prominent in its frescoes.
