Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
SOUTHERN BUCOVINA
'Southern' Bucovina is located in Romania's very north - testimony to a long history of di-
vision. In 1775, the Austro-Hungarian Empire annexed Moldavia, keeping it until 1918,
when Bucovina was returned to Romania. However, the Soviets annexed Northern Bucov-
ina in 1940, incorporating it into the Ukraine.
Another historic aspect - the legacy of Prince Ştefan cel Mare and later successor Petru
Rares - has endowed Southern Bucovina with several spectacular monasteries. The best of
these fortified structures, painted both inside and out with exquisitely detailed frescoes in
almost otherworldly tones, are also Unesco World Heritage sites.
Bucolic Bucovina is dotted with slant-roofed village houses and lovely groves of beech
trees (indeed, the name 'Bucovina' comes from the German word for beech). As in Mara-
mureş, you'll encounter old women in colourful traditional dress, fearless children riding
bareback on horses, and enterprising locals scouring the forest for some truly massive
mushrooms. It's an ornery place, and both public transport and foreign languages can be
lacking, but Bucovina is nevertheless highly worthwhile for hill walks, cycling, rural idylls
and, of course, the unforgettable monasteries.
Suceava
POP 86,282
Judging by its small centre alone, Suceava would hardly seem Moldavia's second- biggest
town; however, it has sufficient urban sprawl to ensure runner-up status. While Suceava
can't compete with Iaşi in things cultural or learned, it does make an incredibly useful and
affordable base for visiting fortresses and the Bucovina painted monasteries, with myriad
worthwhile tours offered. Suceava also has good eats and rudimentary nightlife.
As Moldavia's capital from 1388 to 1565, Suceava thrived commercially on the
Lviv-Istanbul trading route. It boasted approximately 40 churches when Ştefan cel Mare's
reign concluded in 1504. However, stagnation followed a 1675 Turkish invasion. A century
later, Austro-Hungary took over.
Patron St John is celebrated each 24 June; this open holiday (also called 'Suceava Days')
involves beer, street food and music.
Services, restaurants and most sights are near the central Piaţa 22 Decembrie and nearby
Str Ştefan cel Mare.
