Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
morului (24 lei, one daily). Other buses serve Suceava (30 lei), Iaşi (42 lei), Braşov (50
lei) and Bicaz and Lacu Rosu (17 lei).
Bicaz & the Ceahlău Massif
The Ceahlău Massif offers great hiking and stunning mountain views; together with the
Bicaz Gorges and Lacu Roşu, this general area offers an amazingly varied landscape.
Four kilometres west of unremarkable Bicaz village (population 9000), at the confluen-
ce of the Bicaz and Bistriţa Rivers, is the man-made
Bicaz Lake
(Lacu Izvorul Muntelui;
Mountain Spring Lake), which sprawls northward for over 30 sq km. A hydroelectric dam
(
baraj
) at the lake's southern end was built in 1950, with several villages submerged in the
process. Near the dam, at the junction 4km north of Bicaz, a turn-off leads up a twisting
mountain road to
Ceahlău
(chek-
lau
). Turn right after the bridge, to the lake's western
shore for picknicking or paddle-boat hire.
The next village,
Izvoru Muntelui
, has only hiking trails (so stock up on supplies in
Bicaz): start here for the Ceahlău Massif, Moldavia's most spectacular mountain range.
Enter the gated fence and after a five-minute climb a flat section with picnic tables
emerges; the starting point for two trails, each going in opposite directions. A posted map
illustrates how the trails meet at the peak, allowing for two unique hikes during ascent and
descent. With an early start and the requisite fitness level, the Ceahlău Massif can be done
in a single day. Placards detailing flora and fauna (in Romanian) stand along the trails. For
those seeking to break up the trip,
Cabana Dochia
( 0729-548 900;
www.cabana-do-
(with only cold-water showers) and a passable restaurant. This hike is also doable from
Durău and Ceahlău.
Durău
(elevation 800m), on the mountain's northwestern side, offers spa and winter
sports. A steep track (red stripes, one hour) leads to Cabana Fântânele. From there, others
lead towards the peak, Toaca. There is also the small
Durău Monastery
(1830), compris-
ing two churches and nuns quarters. Visitors are welcome.
The
Ceahlău Folk Festival
is held annually on the second Sunday in August.
Ceahlău
village (elevation 550m), 6km north of Durău, has 17th-century palace ruins,
and an 18th-century wooden church. Bypassing the Bicaz mountain road, continue north
for another 24km to
Grozăveşti
, with its Maramureş-like wooden church.
