Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
cent renovations improved it again. It was built by Moldavian prince Petru I Muşat in 1359, who picked an im-
pregnable, high location (very photogenic, but a tiring walk up). The castle was attacked by Hungarians in 1395
and by Turks in 1476, and conquered by Polish forces in 1691. The recent restoration has returned some of the cit-
adel's magnificence, even adding odd touches like a traditionally outfitted mannequin ceremonial guard. To get
there, follow signs for 'Cetatea Neamţului' along B-dul Ştefan cel Mare. If driving, park at the citadel's base and
hike up the hill.
The Târgu Neamţ area is also known for hosting Romania's most active monasteries. Some 7km from town,
14th-century
Neamţ Monastery
is Romania's oldest and largest male monastery. Founded by Petru I Muşat, it
doubled as a protective citadel. Ştefan cel Mare built today's large church, though some of the paintings date from
Muşat's time. The fortified compound houses a medieval art museum and a house museum dedicated to novelist
Mihail Sadoveanu (1880-1961). The library, with 18,000 rare books, is the largest of any Romanian monastery.
Agapia Monastery
( 0233-244 736; Agapia village; museum admission adult/child 5/3 lei, accommodation
per person 30 lei, no breakfast; museum 10am-7pm)
lies down a turn-off 4km south of Târgu Neamţ, which is
the main road towards Piatra Neamţ. Over 400 nuns live here today in two monasteries.
Agapia din Vale
(Agapia
in the Valley; r per person 30 lei, no breakfast)
, at the end of Agapia village, was built between 1642 and 1644 by
Gavril Coci (Vasile Lupu's brother). The church has relaxing gardens and an impressive neoclassical facade (dat-
ing from reconstructions between 1882 and 1903). The impressive frescoed interior was painted between 1858
and 1861 by a very young painter - the famous Nicolae Grigorescu (1838-1907). A small museum, off to the
right, exhibits 16th- and 17th-century icons. Agapia din Vale offers accommodation for pilgrims. The second
monastery,
Agapia din Deal
(Agapia on the Hill; Agapia village)
, also called Agapia Veche or Old Agapia, is
2.2km from the main monastery complex. Follow the right-hand road through Agapia to the signposted dirt road
veering off to the right, though you'll need a sturdy car. Built by Petru Rareş' wife Elena between 1642 to 1647,
it's more modern than its sister monastery but enjoys a peaceful ambience.
From here, a left-hand dirt road veers towards a small plateau and placid
Sihla Monastery
(Schitu Sihla; ad-
mission free)
, inhabited by 30 monks. Nearby, the venerated Cave of Pious St Teodora was where the eponymous
nun lived for 60 years, sleeping on a rock slab. The hermitage is candlelit and visited by pilgrims. (Kyiv's Pecher-
ska Monastery now holds her relics). Sihla can house visitors (ask on site). Here you may observe
pustnici
(ex-
treme hermit monks), who regularly kneel in prayer, sometimes remaining so for hours.
Some 7km south of Agapia on the main road is
Văratec Monastery
(admission free)
, inhabited by over 600
nuns. Founded in 1785, the complex houses an icon museum and small embroidery school. Whitewashed in 1841,
the main church incorporates neoclassical elements and grounds featuring a small botanic garden. The lavishly
decorated interior has numerous frescoes.
Getting to these monasteries from Târgu Neamţ on public transport is possible, though schedules don't allow
for seeing them all in one day - it's much easier and more efficient to drive or take an organised tour. However,
should you go by bus, seven daily buses make the 15km journey from Târgu Neamţ to Neamţ Monastery and
from Târgu Neamţ to Agapia's lower monastery (listed on bus timetables as 'Complex Turistic Agapia'). You can
hike to Văratec from Agapia (two hours) and to Secu, Sihăstria and Sihla Monasteries along clearly marked trails.
There are maxitaxis to Văratec from Târgu Neamţ (10 daily). Buses from Suceava and Piatra also access some of
the monasteries, but less frequently.
