Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Vişeu & Vaser Valleys
Wooded mountains rise to dizzying heights around the picturesque Vişeu Valley (Valea
Vişeu), which tracks the Vişeu River on its journey south. Regular buses and maxitaxis
link the valley to Sighet, making it more accessible for travellers without private transport.
STEAMED UP!
Operated by CFF Vişeu de Sus (
Click here
), and variously known as the 'Vaser Valley Railway' or 'Carpathian
Forest Steam Train', this former logging train travels a network of some 60km of narrow 12-gauge track, and is
probably the last forestry railway still powered by steam working in Europe today. Started in 1932 as an alternat-
ive to transporting logs by river, the track winds through soaring forested crags that a traveller might otherwise
have trouble reaching. It's a life-affirming experience as you sniff the woodsmoke, hear the train whistle blaring,
and see smoke whorling from the gleaming black funnel.
The journey proper starts at 9am, but you'll need to secure a ticket by arriving at the train station at 8.30am (the
train only seats 180). Thanks to damage to the track caused by flooding in 2008, the journey ends at Paltin, where
you'll alight by the river for an hour's lunch. There are benches in a meadow, and grilled hot dogs and drinks are
served for a fee. From Paltin the intrepid can trek higher into the mountains, or it's possible to camp near the
warden's lodge (at Paltin) if you seek his permission (arrange with the CFF Vişeu de Sus office to catch a return
train the following day).
This is a 'Hogwarts' train extraordinaire, loved by kids and adults alike, the mountain scenery up to the remote
Valea Vaser (Vaser Valley) among the most stunning in Europe. Keep your eyes peeled along the way to see bears
drinking at the river. The magic ends at 3pm as you return to the station. It has a pleasant cafe - so you can warm
up with a coffee - and a small Jewish museum. The railway runs from spring to autumn.
To get to the station from the town of Vişeu de Sus, follow signs to: 'Moca Nita', turning left opposite Hotel
Brad on the corner of Str 22 Decembrie and Str Iuliu Maniu, and continuing along Str Carpaţi for 2km. There's
plenty of free parking at the train station, or you can walk from the centre (about 10 to 15 minutes). Remember to
bring an extra layer to combat the chilly air, and if you plan to do some hiking at the top, bring food and water and
wear sturdy boots. CFF sells a good hiking map of the Vaser Valley trails (12 lei).
VIŞEU DE SUS
Essentially a one-street affair dotted with a few banks, cafes and restaurants, the town's
narrow lanes radiate towards the
Vaser Valley railway station
( 0262-353 381; Str
Cerbului 5)
. If you're headed into the rural wilds of Maramureş this is a good stop to fuel
up on gasoline and lei, and there are a couple of solid hotels.
First chronicled in 1363, for centuries Vişeu de Sus was an important logging area, and
ethnically diverse, boasting communities of Jews and Germans. Though many Germans
