Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
rolling hills are filled with fortified Saxon churches in towns that can easily feel lost in
centuries past; especially when you see a horse and cart rattle past laden with milk churns,
or a shepherd ushering his flock across your path. Bus service is practically nonexistent;
visitors come by hire car, taxi, bike or tour bus. If you get stares as you pull in past a row
of octogenarians in trad garb, they're just wondering who the folks are with a car!
A couple of highlights get nearly all the visits, notably Biertan and Viscri. Much of the
restoration in the area has been carried out by the Mihai Eminescu Trust, of which Prince
Charles is a major driving force, along with author William Blacker (Along the Enchanted
Way) .
It's best to explore when churches are open, failing which you may have to track down
the caretaker to get entry (which is often possible). Bring your own food or eat in Biertan.
History
In 1123 Hungarian King Geza II invited Saxons - mainly from the Franken region in
western Germany - to settle here. In the 15th and 16th centuries, following the increased
threat of Turkish attacks on their towns, the settlements were strengthened with bulky city
walls and fortified churches. Defensive towers in the churches served as observation
posts. Town entrances were guarded with a portcullis that could be quickly lowered.
After the 1990 revolution there was an exodus of Saxons back to Germany, leaving
pretty villages ghostly and untended. Many were swiftly inhabited by the Roma.
BIERTAN
POP 2550
Your first glimpse of Biertan's medieval church is unforgettable: towering over the square
below, clustered with vividly painted houses and backed by vineyards and tussocky mead-
ows, this feels like a place that time forgot. There's a couple of places to stay, a decent
restaurant and a market in the square that sells handicrafts.
Sights
Biertan's fantastical 15th-century church (adult/child 8/4 lei; 10am-7pm Apr-Oct) was
the seat of the Lutheran bishop from 1572 to 1867 and was listed as a Unesco World Her-
itage site in 1993. Its Viennese-style altar (1483-1550) has 28 panels and its three rings of
walls stand up to 12m tall. This is the only fortified church in the region that holds regular
services (once a month).
Near the altar in the church is the sacristy that once held treasure behind its formidable
door with an even more formidable lock: it has 19 locks in one, and is such a marvel of
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