Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
( 08-9193 5600; www.broomebirdobservatory.com ; Crab Creek Rd; admission by donation, camping per person
$15, donga s/d $50/85, chalets $165; 8am-5pm) On Roebuck Bay, 25km from Broome, this amaz-
ing bird observatory is a vital staging post for hundreds of migratory species, some travel-
ling over 12,000km. Tours range from an excellent two-hour walk ($70) to a five-day all-
inclusive course ($1290). Self-guided trails, accommodation and binoculars are available.
The unsealed access road can close during the Wet.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Dampier Peninsula
Stretching north from Broome, the red pindan of the Dampier Peninsula ends abruptly
above deserted beaches, secluded mangrove bays and cliffs burnished crimson by the set-
ting sun. This country is home to the thriving indigenous settlements of the Ngumbarl,
Jabirr Jabirr, Nyul Nyul, Nimanburu, Bardi, Jawi and Goolarabooloo peoples.
Access is by 4WD, along the largely unsealed 215km-long Cape Leveque Rd. Visiting
Aboriginal communities requires both a DIA ( Click here ) permit and one from the com-
munity (there are exceptions), payable at the office on arrival. Communities can close
suddenly, so always book ahead from the Broome Visitor Centre ( Click here ). Look for
the booklet Ardi - Dampier Peninsula Travellers Guide . You should be self-sufficient,
though limited supplies are available.
On Cape Leveque Rd, turn left after 14km onto Manari Rd, and head north along the
spectacular coast. There are bush camping sites (no facilities) at Barred Creek, Quandong
Point, James Price Point and Coulomb Point, where there is a nature reserve . Conventional
vehicles should make it to James Price Point , the Kimberley's foremost environmental battle-
ground, where there are plans to construct a large LNG facility. See it in its pristine state
while you still can.
Back on Cape Leveque Rd, it's 110km to Beagle Bay ( 08-9192 4913) , notable for the ex-
traordinarily beautiful mother-of-pearl altar at Beagle Bay church, built by Pallottine
monks in 1918. There's no accommodation, but fuel is available (weekdays only). Contact
the office on arrival.
o Middle Lagoon ( 08-9192 4002; www.middlelagoon.com.au ; unpowered/powered sites $30/40, beach shel-
ter d $50, cabins d $140-240) , 180km from Broome and surrounded by empty beaches, is superb
for swimming, snorkelling, fishing and doing nothing. There's plenty of shade and bird
life, and the cabins are great value, though the access road is terrible. Other options in-
 
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