Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
CHRISTMAS & COCOS (KEELING) ISLANDS
Christmas Island
A mountainous lump of bird poo in the Indian Ocean, not far from Java, Christmas Island (population 1600) was
originally settled in 1888 by guano (phosphate) miners, which is still the main economic activity. Its people are a
mix of Chinese, Malays and European-Australians, a blend reflected in the island's food, languages and customs.
In recent years, CI has gained notoriety as the number-one destination for illegal asylum-seeker boats, causing an
influx of government workers.
Don't be put off, as nature here is stunning and more than half the island remains protected as
CI National
Park
. Tall rainforest covers the plateau, and a series of limestone cliffs and terraces attract rare and endemic sea
birds. A network of trails runs through the park, and it's possible to camp at
Dolly Beach
. CI is famous for the
spectacular annual migration in November-December of millions of
red land crabs
marching from the forest
down to the coast to breed, covering everything in sight. On the edge of the
Java Trench
, diving is superb all
year, and snorkelling on the fringing reefs is popular during the Dry. The Wet (December to March) brings a swell
and decent surf.
While the island is keen to shake off the detention-centre vibe and encourage tourists, the reality is that most
facilities are overtaken by government contractors. Hopefully the situation will change. CI is one hour behind
Perth (WST; Western Standard Time).
Christmas Island Tourism
( 08-9164 8382;
www.christmas.net.au
)
Your best bet to sniff out a room, car,
boat, airport transfer and whatever else is happening on CI.
Cocos (Keeling) Islands
Situated 2750km west of Perth are the Cocos (Keeling) Islands (population 650), a necklace of 27 idyllic, low-ly-
ing islands around a blue lagoon that inspired Charles Darwin's theory of coral-atoll formation. CKI was settled
by John Clunies-Ross in 1826 and his family remained in control of the islands and their Malay workers until
1978, when CKI became part of Australia's Indian Ocean territories. Today about 550 Malays and 100 European-
Australians live on
Home
and
West Islands
. It's a very low-key place in which to walk, snorkel, dive, fish,
windsurf, birdwatch and relax. While most people come on a package, you can visit independently, and camping
is allowed at Scout Park on West Island, and on
Direction
and
South Islands
. You will need to bring all your
own gear. Bring lots of cash as there are no ATMs, though some places accept credit cards. CKI is 90 minutes be-
hind WST.
Cocos-Keeling Islands
(
08-9162 6790;
www.cocos-tourism.cc
) Great CKI website includes accommoda-
tion, tours and activities.
Cocos Dive
( 08-9162 6515;
www.cocosdive.com
;
per day from $210) Able to arrange single dives, week-
long packages or SSI courses.
Getting There & Away
Virgin flies from Perth to both islands several times weekly. Prices start at around $500 for either island, and at
$220 between the two. There's also a return charter flight on Saturday from Kuala Lumpur to CI, bookable
through
Island Explorer Holidays
( 1300 884 855;
www.islandexplorer.com.au
)
. Twitchers could consider
an all-inclusive tour of both islands from
Birding Tours Australia
(
02-4927 1808;
www.birdingtours.com.au
;
14-day tours $3800;
Feb-Mar & Nov-Dec) . Australian visa requirements apply,
and Australians should bring their passports.
