Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
quirky museum displays over 1000 of them at Domaine de la Citadelle, a winery on the
D3 toward Cavaillon, where you can sample Côtes du Luberon.
WINE TASTING
The Luberon is graced with three main wine appellations: the Côtes du Ventoux, the Côtes du Luberon and the
Coteaux de Pierrevert. Head to the nearest tourist office and request a map that shows all the local growers, co-
operatives and wine cellars. As you traipse through the countryside, you'll always know just where to stop.
Eating
Café Véranda €€
MODERN FRENCH
( 04 90 72 33 33;
www.cafe-veranda.com
; 104 av Marcellin Poncet;
lunch mains €10-13, dinner menus €38; lunch Tue-Sun, dinner Tue-Sat)
High in the
village, Véranda feels effortlessly casual, its candy-striped tablecloths a cheerful comple-
ment to the sweeping valley views. The kitchen ekes subtle flavours from seasonal-re-
gional produce - to wit, an elegantly simple truffle omelette. Reservations essential.
Café du Progrès €
( 04 90 72 22 09; place Albert Roure, Ménerbes; menus €13-16; lunch, bar 6am-
midnight)
Ménerbes' tobacconist-newsagent-bar, Café du Progrès, run by good-hu-
moured Patrick, hasn't changed much since it opened a century ago. Great for a lunchtime
plat du jour,
but arrive early.
CAFE
Oppède-le-Vieux
Abandoned in 1910, when villagers moved down the hill to the valley to cultivate the
plains, this curious little medieval hilltop village (6km southwest of Ménerbes) is today
home to a handful of artists (population 20). From the car parks (€3), a wooded path leads
to the village's ancient cobbled alleys, up the hillside
ruins
, with formidable valley views
- a romantic vantage point on the Luberon's geography (provided it's not hazy). The 16th-
