Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Domaine de la Solitude
( 04 90 83 71 45;
www.domaine-solitude.com
; rte de Bédarides (D192); tastings free,
bottles €19-100; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, Sat & Sun by appointment)
Two kilometres east
of village, it's worth calling ahead to appreciate Châteauneuf-du-Pape from this family-
run estate, cultivated for 600 years by descendants of Pope Urbain VIII. You'll receive a
warm welcome, in English, as you discover elegant, rounded wines, with supple, never-
harsh tannins - the winemaker's signature. Tastings include visits to the barrel cellar.
WINERY
Château Mont Redon
( 04 90 83 72 75;
www.chateaumontredon.fr
; rte d'Orange (D88); tastings free, bottles
€21-31; 9am-7pm)
Mont Redon is just 3km from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and has easy
access and gorgeous placement amid sweeping vineyards. Its large size makes it easy for
drop-ins, but you may encounter weekend crowds; better to come weekdays, when tast-
ings are served in the stone château. Its respectable wines include an excellent, mineral-y
white.
WINERY
École de Dégustation
(Tasting School; 04 90 83 56 15;
www.oenologie-mouriesse.com
;
2 rue des Papes;
2hr courses from €40)
To appreciate the region's stellar wine, book a two-hour wine-tast-
ing class.
WINE TASTING
CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE WINES: A PRIMER
Thank geology for these luscious wines: when glaciers receded, they left a thick layer of
galets
scattered atop the
red-clay soil; these large pebbles trap the Provençal sun, releasing heat after sunset, helping grapes ripen with
steady warmth.
The Romans first planted vines here 2000 years ago, but wine-growing took off after Pope John XXII built a
castle in 1317, planting vineyards to provide the court with wine. From this papally endorsed beginning, wine pro-
duction flourished.
Most Châteauneuf-du-Pape is red; only 6% is white (rosé is forbidden). Strict regulations - which formed the
basis for the Appellation d'Origine Protégée (AOP) system - govern production. Reds come from 13 grape variet-
ies - grenache is the biggie - and should age five years minimum. The full-bodied whites drink well young (ex-
cept for all-rousanne varieties) and make an excellent, mineral-y aperitif, hard to find elsewhere (but taste before
buying; some may lack acidity).
