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remains exceptional, notably the summertime-only starter-to- dessert tomato menu.
Reserve.
GASTRONOMIC
Les 5 Sens €€€
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( 04 90 85 26 51; www.restaurantles5sens.com ; 18 rue Joseph Vernet; menus lunch
€16-21, dinner €39-58; Tue-Sat) Chef Thierry Baucher, one of France's meilleurs ouv-
riers (top chefs), reveals his southwestern origins in specialties like cassoulet and foie
gras, but skews contemporary Mediterranean in gastronomic dishes such as butternut-
squash ravioli with escargots . Surroundings are refreshingly unfussy - vaguely French-
colonial, with rattan and carved wood - and service is impeccable.
MODERN FRENCH
Numéro 75 €€
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( 04 90 27 16 00; www.numero75.fr ; 75 rue Guillaume Puy; menus €28.50-34.50,
mains €16-25; Mon-Sat) The chic dining room, in the former mansion of absinthe in-
ventor Jules Pernod, is a fitting backdrop for stylised Mediterranean cooking. Menus
change nightly, and include only three mains, but brevity guarantees freshness. On balmy
nights, book the courtyard garden.
Le Grand Café €€
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( 04 90 86 86 77; www.legrandcafe-restaurant.fr ; cour Maria Casarès; lunch/dinner
menus €18/28; lunch & dinner Tue-Sat Sep-Apr, Tue-Sun Jun-Aug) Hidden behind the
Palais des Papes, this boho-chic bistro-bar with a big terrace adjoins arty Manutention cul-
tural centre. Giant mirrors on rough-hewn walls reflect French actors' portraits and rows
of vintage tables. Good-value Provençal menus provide an alternative to more touristy
places uphill.
MEDITERRANEAN
Ginette et Marcel €
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(27 place des Corps Saints; dishes €4-6; 11am-11pm Wed-Mon) Tartines (open-faced
sandwiches), tarts, salad and soup comprise the menu at this homy cafe with farm tables,
vintage floors and big windows overlooking a happening square.
CAFE
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